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Dim headlights


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Sorry Carl,

I got all upset and started typing before looking at the small print.

I'll try not to let it happen again (for a while at least) hehehe LOL

Dave.

P.S. Seerex, was that comment for me? If so, thank you. I'm kinda proud of it so far. :D

If not, than sorry for buttin in :tapemouth

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Hey, No Worries Dave. I'm still scratch'in my head over this thread being exhumed.

Sorry Dave, everyone.

I was looking at referrer URLs to my site and saw classiczcars.com was one. Searched and found a few threads that linked.

I was compelled to respond since I believe that the 240Z headlight wiring is a mistake that needs correcting - with relays. I didn't realize Dave had made a harness and was selling them. Cool!

Dave, nice product! The only thing I didn't see was any discussion of protecting the scratched steel where you put the ground ring connectors on the car. I'd suggest anyone that does this mod use some grease of some kind to protect the metal from corrosion. Sorry if that was discussed somewhere.

BTW, I used the output of the alternator (with fusible link) as my voltage source. Since it feeds the battery directly from there, I figured it was a shorter run from the source of current that it'll really be drawing from anyway - the alternator (except at idle maybe).

Pete

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Well, since everyone is re-posting on this topic, let me add my 2¢ on a "rebuttal" for Will.

In a nutshell your procedure is the better of the two. Ideally everyone working on their electrical system has all of the proper equipment and materials to do as you suggested, which is to use a chemical process to remove the corrosion in a connection. Sadly, in my experience working underneath trees, tarps, and most other made-to-do repair facilities, the average "repair-man", meaning most of us, is looking for a fix NOW. The fix I mentioned is just that, a quick and after two, going on 3 years, fix.

If you read my post, you'll note that I specified to be careful, and only remove enough material to effect a good connection.

Personally, I'm saving up to buy two of Dave's upgraded Headlight Relay Wiring even though I still have stock wattage bulbs.

Enrique

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If you read my post, you'll note that I specified to be careful, and only remove enough material to effect a good connection.

Enrique

I've used a brass brush and electrical contact cleaner for fixing up corroded terminals and connectors. But sometimes the corrosion is in the wire and at the crimp. The only way to really fix that is to remove the corroded portion of the wire and replace it. Many of the .250" QC type crimp connectors will work in the OE Datsun harness connector shells.

Dave, where do you get these new 240Z connector shells? I am working on a "separate turn signal and brake" circuit that I'd like to plug in between the rear harness and the short harness at the tail lights. The reason I'm doing the separate brake and turn signal thing is because I have European tail lights and want to make them work the way I think then should.

Cheers,

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Personally, I'm saving up to buy two of Dave's upgraded Headlight Relay Wiring even though I still have stock wattage bulbs.

Enrique

I'll be waiting but things have slowed down around here, almost to a dead stop.

I've started to focus on the car itself, rather than what to upgrade. Little leaks, winter cleaning, had a nail in the tire yesterday, stuff like that. But I still have enough materials for a few more harness's. All the info you need for ordering is on the forum.

Will, I'll be waiting. Did you see the under hood light I did w/ the L.E.D.'s?

I'm gonna order some leds from that site as soon as I get a couple extra bucks. I want the red ones real bad.

pparaska, thank you very much, and I usually protected the scraped area w/ a dielectric grease, ( just a little bit) and no rust so far. And as for your short-cut to the alternater, you're actually putting more stress on the wire that goes from the alternater to the battery. direct from the battery is always a better idea. By going thru the alt rather than the battery, your asking your STOCK wiring to do more work. sounds weird but true.

Dave.

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Dave, where do you get these new 240Z connector shells? I am working on a "separate turn signal and brake" circuit that I'd like to plug in between the rear harness and the short harness at the tail lights. The reason I'm doing the separate brake and turn signal thing is because I have European tail lights and want to make them work the way I think then should.

Cheers,

I usually start at the local wrecking yards when I only need a couple of plugs. If I know i'm going to need a whole bunch, then I go to the local automotive electrical shop or alternator/starter repair shop. Trying to find the exact plug on-line can be a pain in the arse, trust me been there, done that, hated it.

When I get used plugs I start by removing the old wires and connectors to acess the damage and see if I need new terminals. then I clean em up and load new wires into the plugs.

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People I've seen daves work first hand.even while he's still working on it.now I know some of you already have daves product,but for those of you that don't, wow the detail is better than todays auto makers standards.and seeing first hand how it effects the lighting and reduces the electrical draw is incredible.Now if I could just get dave to start working on the parking and tail lights!good news dave I have customers that would love to see how your product works.Ive also some audio work for you.

JZM

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