How to Remove Rotors from '78

[Bojanglez280]

I have searched for awhile using the search forum option, and have found some useful info....but, looking for as much detail as possible. For those of you who do not know, I am a school teacher that is learning this trade on the side. I have always been a Z enthusiast, and have loved learning things as I go.

This is just the next step. I have purchased new rotors and calipers (loaded) for the front and new shoes/drums/hardware for the rear. I have the car on jackstands, the rear drums off, and have the front calipers off. The rotor is making me scratch my head. I have read to hit it with a rubber mallet and various other options to remove it. Currently it is soaking in PB Blaster. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Pictures, for my ignorance, are even better.

Another question: While I am in there, should I go ahead and replace wheel bearings and seals? I have fully read the link by ZClub Tech tips http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/frontwheelbearings/index.html and if it is necessary, am willing to attack it. Thanks again everyone for the help! This car has been a joy. I know it is one that most would not try to redo, but it is not only fun for me but a cheap self teaching tool. It was an AWESOME feeling last week just to drive it around the block.

Jamie

[Zed Head]

I haven't replaced rotors but I think that they are bolted on to the hub from the back. Do you have the hub and rotor assembly off of the car or are you trying to remove the rotor with it on the car? Sounds like you might have it still on the car since you're asking about bearings. If you had the hub and rotor off you'd already have removed half of the bearings and seen that they're pretty easy to replace, although some beating with a punch and hammer might be required. Use a brass or aluminum punch so you don't score the bearing race seats.

Rockauto has some good tips on making sure the new rotors work right (click on a link for any rotor and a new window will open up). Runout needs to be checked.

Edited July 1, 2013 by Zed Head

[EuroDat]

Zed is right. Sounds like you are trying to remove the rotor before removing the disc hub from the car. Its held onto the hub with four bolts from the rear. You can't access them with the dust shieldis still in place.

It would be handy if you have somesort ofbench vice to work with. The bolts can be pretty tight.

Front wheel bearings are easy to replace and the FSM is a good guide to follow. The back wheelbearing are a differant story and requiremore specilized equipment to press the bearing off and on.

Make sure you clean the PB blaster off real good before installing the new calipers. You dont want that stuff getting on the new brake pads.

Chas

[Bojanglez280]

If you can not access them with the dust shield still on, and you have to have the hub off to remove the four screws for the brake dust shield...then where do you start? The bearing dust cap, cotter pin, spindle lock???

Maybe I'm I'm over my head on this one.

[Bojanglez280]

Answered my own question. Out of curiosity, I removed the listed items above and the hub is now off. Thanks for the direction guys. If I need anything else, you already know I will ask.

[Zed Head]

Groovy. Here's a trick I've seen used to loosen things that are on the hub that might help. Put the hub back on a wheel, tighten it down with a couple of lug nuts, place the wheel face down on the ground, then stand or sit on the wheel while you loosen the bolts. Or you might just hold the wheel with one hand and loosen with the other. Whatever works.

[Bojanglez280]

Next item on the agenda....I got the bolts loose. Kind of an odd way, but nonetheless they are off. Next, separating the hub from the rotor? So far, what I have seen, tools needed are a block of 2x4 and a hammer. I am not sure how I feel about that but, that is what I have seen. Thoughts?

In the mean time I have taken off the dust shield, scuffed it, cleaned it, and put a coat of black paint on it. I have ordered all the bearings, seals, nuts, retainers...etc necessary to go ahead and replace everything up front.

Thanks again,

Jamie

[EuroDat]

It should come out with a good tap. Use two blocks of wood to support the disc and another to protect the hub when you tap it out. If its not too corroded, you could try a screwdriver between the mating surfaces and work around until they come apart.

[zKars]

Eurodat, I do not believe the required force is properly conveyed by the word "tap". Perhaps "bludgeon" is closer.

Don't be afraid. You will not hurt anything unless you hammer directly on the metal hub or rotor, or use too small or too soft a piece of wood as the buffer.

Support it as Eurodat has suggested, then HIT the wood resting across the hub center HARD and centered with a 2 lb or greater hammer until the halves begin to separate enough to get a good big cold chisel in the gap. Then use the chisel with the above hammer to wedge/separate the halves, working around the circumference. This way you will minimize the blows to the hub circle. These things can be quite "attached" if they've been married for 40 years....

[EuroDat]

Hi zKars. Yer, I was doing my best not to sound like some out of cotrol butcher. My Z's rotors came out quiet easy, but I had a 1971 Escort which would let go no matter what. Ended up heating the rotors to dull red and flogging the crape out of them. They were stuff anyway and I had new ones ready.

Bojanglez. Hope you dont go through the same routine.

PS: sounds like you dont have the FSM. You can get it here: XenonS30

Chas

Edited July 2, 2013 by EuroDat
Link was busted

[jcb]

"out of control butcher"

EuroDat, Please........... that is such a poor choice of words.

J.C. Butcher

[ZCurves]

Sounds like you have removed it correctly. BUT, this is where the real careful work begins. If you are replacing the bearings you will need to 'Pack' the bearings with grease properly, You will also need to be careful when you replace the Bearing Races within the hub. Afterwards you need to properly load the hub with grease, so that when the wheel is turning at high speed the grease doesn't empty toward the seals. Finally and most importantly, when you re-install the hub onto the spindle you will need to 'Preload' the nut on the spindle. You do this by over-tightening a wee bit - it is best to torque to spec. Always use a new cotter pin and always pack the dust cap with just enough grease so that it does not ooze out of the seal. All of this is demonstrated in the FSM and on the atlanticz website.

Important tip: After the Hub/Rotor assembly is installed back on the car and BEFORE you install the Calipers, spray down both sides of the Rotor with Brake Cleaner to remove any left over grease. You can also lightly spray out the Loaded Caliper to right before bolting it all back up.

Be Safe! -Use caution, take your time and ask questions. PM me if necessary.