suggestions on advance curve?

[madkaw]

I guess I don't need to mention that engine temp is critical with engine tuning. You might get that resolved before continuing the tune

Good luck

[kingofapes]

I did notice when adjusting the max that it's not easy. did it several times.. your excel file would be helpful later on. I started doing the timing just now, but when I started the engine, my front carb flooded - I had it open a few days ago and seems like I managed to screw the float height adjustment. adjusted again and will try.. Last 2 weeks every time i wanted to start with the timing, there was some strange problem that prevented me from doing it.

[Lazeum]

Here's the file

Mallory Unilite Ignition Curves.xls

Edited July 5, 2013 by Lazeum

[kingofapes]

thanks Mat I probably have an bad earth connection somewhere because also my fuel gauge doesn't work..

[Lazeum]

Check for broken cables. My temp sensor, my fuel sender had some corroded wires that became brittle over time. I cut them, installed new connectors and it solved the problem.

Edited July 5, 2013 by Lazeum

[kingofapes]

sorry about the typo in my last post.. (Mat...Matt)

[Lazeum]

sorry about the typo in my last post.. (Mat...Matt)

Whatever, my real first name is Mathieu. So Mat or Matt does not change much!

[kingofapes]

A couple of days ago when one of my carbs flooded, fuel went into oil and I have to change it before I can continue. Also I don't manage to get my temp gauge working now so I bought a new gauge that I use until I can fix the original one. I'm also having a problem getting idle low enough so I suspect I might have a vacuum leak in the intake. Didn't test it yet as so far I only ran the engine very, very briefly due to not knowing the temp. I ran the engine at a time max about 3 minutes, usually just 20 seconds because the idle has been really high no matter what I did. Today I tried once a minute or so, and played with mixture screws, closed them quite a bit and the idle went down and engine stalled. Turned them out just tiny amount, and next time the idle was really high again.

Should I be able to see all progression holes covered completely when the butterflies are closed? I adjusted so that all butterflies are in the same position but since one of them did not completely cover the first hole, I set all the others to the same. Basically the first progression hole is now half open. Could this be enough to make the idle way too fast? The fact that every time the idle is very high is a bit annoying, it would be more reassuring to start tuning with low idle rather than super fast. Also the baseline settings should make the engine run very slow, like a tractor but that's certainly not the case with mine now.

[Patcon]

You aught to read the "white paper" written by Keith Frank(s). There is a DCOE Yahoo group and it is in there reference area. The man knows his DCOE's. There is info in there that should be helpful for setting up your DCOE's and getting idle right as well as avoiding the "flat spot"

Charles

[kingofapes]

Found it, thanks!

[kingofapes]

took out my triples to adjust the butterflies. they were fine.. the culprit for not being able to close properly was the idle speed stoppers in the linkage. they can only be installed one way, they have no adjustment in their axis, yet they were not allowing the butterflies to close completely even with the idle speed screw completely off. I had put the carbs in place without the linkage after confirming they do close properly, so I was a little flabbergasted about the problem. Simple solution: file half a mm off the stopper e voila: now they close perfectly. Before putting the carbs back, I wanna put in a heat shield or at the very least heat shield wrap around the header.