White milky substance/ Oily coming from hole...

[olzed]

If the head and block is getting hot, but the radiator is not, it could be an air lock.

With the engine running, and the rad full, loosen the hose clamps on the hose that runs along the engine right hand side above the starter motor, and give the hose and clamps a few wriggles to burp out the air. Retighten clamps with the engine running, and don't forget to refill radiator.

Worked for me, and worth a shot.

[Stanley]

Another option I've seen on some other sites is to run a hose from that pipe to a "catch can" filter, and then to the PCV valve. That way the liquid gunk or foam gets trapped by a stainless steel screen you can clean out, only fumes get recycled to the intake. Saw one that looks pretty good, with a bracket, at a boat store, about $45.

Disclaimer: haven't actually tried it.

[240260280z]

"That's what she said"

Sorry I could not help myself after seeing that title for a few days.

[dpascual1986]

"That's what she said"

Sorry I could not help myself after seeing that title for a few days.

it was meant to be green, haha. Anyways, I found a pipe that goes into that hole at the junkyard. I am planning to secure it with shellac (the same kind to secure freeze plugs) and route a tube to the dual air cleaners that I have. Anyone object?

Daniel

btw - I just discovered why the radiator wasn't getting warm... you guys are going to kill me if I tell you. :-( It is fixed now. I will charge my battery tonight and fire her up long enough to try to burn off said condensation. As always, thanks for the excellent advice.

Edited July 14, 2013 by dpascual1986

[LeonV]

btw - I just discovered why the radiator wasn't getting warm... you guys are going to kill me if I tell you. :-( It is fixed now.

No coolant?

FYI, the block vent should be hooked up to a PCV valve.

[dpascual1986]

No coolant?

FYI, the block vent should be hooked up to a PCV valve.

no coolant, sorry i let you guys down. its filled now :-)

in other news, I have found a pipe that goes into that hole, my buddy Scott (dude with the most awesome 240z you ever did see) says he put a k&n filter on his and will send me a picture. Sweeet.

So i fired her up today and there was a ticking sound that seemed to originate from the valve cover... I opened it up and this is what I saw, the cams were rusted up.

<img src="http://s15.postimg.org/8omqnkcaz/20130714_195543.jpg"</img>

<img src="http://s10.postimg.org/m9h3gmvdx/20130714_194030.jpg"</img>

I cleaned it with steel wool and looks kinda acceptable now, ticking sound is not noticeable anymore.

I recently bought a house, so my funds are extremely low right now but i would like to know what I can get away with but on the same hand not have to redo something later down the road. I would like to state (but as everyone can see, im a noob) that if theres any clear cut indication that I need to replace a head gasket/machine a cylinder head, rust on the cams would be it.

anyone care to object and propose a less costly solution?

[Captain_Zeros]

dumb question time, have you adjusted your valve lash? Nine times outta ten valve noise is coming from poorly adjusted valve lash, it wears and changes over time.

[EuroDat]

Dont worry about being a noob. I dont know anyone that was born a Z expert DNA. The forum is here to help and most are glad to offer assistence.

You might want to gives us a bit more history other than it has not been driven for at least two years. We keep getting tit bits of info like: working on my ride which sounds like a daily driver and then you say you dont dare drive it four feet.

Looking at the photo of the cam lobe. Looks like there was a lot of condensation in the engine when it was parked. Did the PO say anything as to why it was parked?

Chas

[dpascual1986]

Dont worry about being a noob. I dont know anyone that was born a Z expert DNA. The forum is here to help and most are glad to offer assistence.

You might want to gives us a bit more history other than it has not been driven for at least two years. We keep getting tit bits of info like: working on my ride which sounds like a daily driver and then you say you dont dare drive it four feet.

Looking at the photo of the cam lobe. Looks like there was a lot of condensation in the engine when it was parked. Did the PO say anything as to why it was parked?

Chas

Ok, a bit of history. Got the car about a year ago, from a real shady dude who fancies himself a Z enthusiast. The dude claimed that this car was rust free and that all it needed was a new battery, it was parked on the street so I assumed he drove it there.

Lo and behold, like 99% of all 240Z's, it was a rust bucket. Once I started to remove the carpet and panels, all i found was rust. So much so that my friends said my car was from the Flintstones and that it was foot powered (the floor pans were basically non existent and was held together by the seat and sound proofing material and the fact that it did not run)

The engine and 5 speed tranny he claimed, was from a 1975 280z. When I put a new battery in, I discovered that nothing on the car worked; lights, doors, brakes, suspension, exhaust was non existent, locks, windows, gauges, starter switch... he claimed that the fuel system had been flushed and re-lined, the carbs synced at a So-Cal area Z specialist and had receipts to prove it dating about 4 months from where I bought it -but when I drained the gas, it was brown and my mechanic said I was duped.

About 5 grand later- my windows work, suspension was replaced, brakes were replaced (brake cylinders, drums, master cylinder, pads, rotors), new floor pans were placed in, and a whole bunch of parts just waiting for install.

I lost a lot of money and starting to lose my heart, the only thing that keeps me going is the fact that I lost a lot of money, the insanely friendly support from people like you guys (Im also on the Tacoma forums, those guys flame you for asking any questions) , and the occasional "can i buy your car?", "that **** is hottt" and "wow, what kind of car is that?".

I put it away for a few months, and bought a house. Now that I have a garage, I bought a few books and am starting work, one bolt at a time.

It is not a daily driver, its parked under a car cover. It starts but is not drivable. PO said it was parked because his battery was out and that he had too many Z's.

Im thinking the condensation from the cam lobes are from a blown head gasket... but then again, I am only pretending to know what I am doing.

*Anyone have instructions on how to adjust valve lash?

**I put in water in the radiator with the intent of flushing it out once I reach operating temperature -should I drain it out before it starts messing other stuff up? Im scared to run it, because of the ticking under the valve cover.

***Does anyone know what size freeze plug is used directly beside that hole I just put a pipe in?

****Any So-cal locals want to occasionally drop in on me, take me under their wing and help me make sure this Z doesn't end up in the junk yard? I'm not asking for free labor, I'm asking for free advice, hehe

Edited July 15, 2013 by dpascual1986

[dpascual1986]

dumb question time, have you adjusted your valve lash? Nine times outta ten valve noise is coming from poorly adjusted valve lash, it wears and changes over time.

your questions can't be dumber than mine, haha. Do you know of a write-up explaining how this adjustment is done? I am still waiting for my books on the topic.

[LeonV]

your questions can't be dumber than mine, haha. Do you know of a write-up explaining how this adjustment is done? I am still waiting for my books on the topic.

Kammy's World Famous Valve Adjustment

[LeonV]

Im thinking the condensation from the cam lobes are from a blown head gasket... but then again, I am only pretending to know what I am doing.

Most likely not. Do a compression test, that will tell you way more about the state of the head gasket and engine than a rusty cam. Adjust the valves first. I hope you've changed the oil.

*Anyone have instructions on how to adjust valve lash?

See my above post.

**I put in water in the radiator with the intent of flushing it out once I reach operating temperature -should I drain it out before it starts messing other stuff up? Im scared to run it, because of the ticking under the valve cover.

If you want to use water, use it only temporarily and ONLY distilled water (i.e. not from the hose in your yard). Antifreeze has anti-corrosive properties and also helps lubricate the water pump.

***Does anyone know what size freeze plug is used directly beside that hole I just put a pipe in?

Measure it. Why is this info needed?

****Any So-cal locals want to occasionally drop in on me, take me under their wing and help me make sure this Z doesn't end up in the junk yard? I'm not asking for free labor, I'm asking for free advice, hehe

Come to JCCS in September, I'll be there.