Noise!

[EuroDat]

Carl's tip about the mustache bar bolts is a good one. They were the cause of a rattle that took me months to find.

One extra note. Nothing to do with the rattle.

The rear hatch seal should be replaced for your own safety. Carbon monoxide poisoning can be a risk if it lets exhaust fumes in the cabin.

Chas

[Pomorza]

So I did notice one thing this morning while under the Z. One of the four bolts that is on the suspension (see photo, they right above the two huge nuts there) is not there as in gone. Does it matter what bolt goes here? What should the toque be on siad mustach bar bolts?.

http://www.zforceproductions.com/product%20images/controlarms/IMG_13261.jpg

[madkaw]

Does it matter!?!?!?

YES- more importantly , I would not drive without it. You need to put a wrench on every bolt under your car. Get a bolt the correct diameter so there's no slop in there. Pretty good chance you found your rattle

[FastWoman]

That's almost certainly the problem. However, I'd also not drive the car long distances without the hatch weather stripping, at least without the windows rolled down. That just invites carbon monoxide into the cabin. (It gets sucked inside from the turbulent air just behind the car -- common route of entry.)

[LeonV]

That's almost certainly the problem. However, I'd also not drive the car long distances without the hatch weather stripping, at least without the windows rolled down. That just invites carbon monoxide into the cabin. (It gets sucked inside from the turbulent air just behind the car -- common route of entry.)

Rolling the windows down makes it worse, as that lowers the air pressure inside the cabin making it even easier for fumes to get in. Driving with windows up and fan on is a better choice. FWIW...

[Pomorza]

Ladies and gents

I'll get under the car sometime this week and tighten everything down. I do think that my mount might be back as the noise seems to occur under decompression (when I brake for instance). As for the weather stripping. I usually run with both windows down as its 100+ outside and I do not have AC.

Thanks

Jan

[Pomorza]

Update part three

I retorqued all the bolts on the rear suspension this afternoon per measurements given in the FSM. The noise is still there. There is a bit of an interesting development. When someone else is in the car - more weight - the noise is very seldom. The second it is just me the noise happens nearly everytime I hit any sort of bumps. This past weekend I also replaced the rear weatherstripping on the hatch. It's quite sealed. I did find some nasty rust in the process but at least now I know where I have rust and why.

Any suggestions would be lovely

Thanks

Jan

[Pomorza]

Update part three

I retorqued all the bolts on the rear suspension this afternoon per measurements given in the FSM. The noise is still there. There is a bit of an interesting development. When someone else is in the car - more weight - the noise is very seldom. The second it is just me the noise happens nearly everytime I hit any sort of bumps. This past weekend I also replaced the rear weatherstripping on the hatch. It's quite sealed. I did find some nasty rust in the process but at least now I know where I have rust and why.

Any suggestions would be lovely

Thanks

Jan

[Lazeum]

I had a noise occurring only on bumps on my car after full restoration.

Everything was tight as it was supposed to be. I made sure of it at every step of the process.

It appeared shock (Bilstein unit) inside strut housing was loose. What happened was gland nut was tight against shock during assembly but it was most likely not well installed inside the nut. At the first bump/load, the strut moved back inside gland nut creating some loose condition.

I had to take apart rear suspension & spring to find the issue. Since spring is putting pressure on your system you couldn't feel it otherwise. As soon as preload disappeared, issue became obvious. I just had to tighten the gland nut to bring back everything to normal. It was a 1 hr fix with the right tools (you need to disconnect brake lines to do so).

Not sure it's your problem but it might be worth a check if you do not have stock suspension... (who does not after 40 yrs of service?)

Edited July 22, 2013 by Lazeum

[Pomorza]

Well I found the source of the noise, oddly enough by putting something in the trunk. The rear sway bar mount on the passengers side is no longer attached to the car, as in it broke off. I haven't taken a good look at it as it was dark but it looks like it had prior rust on it and just broke off. I don't really know where to go from this point. I don't own nor do I know how to weld. I'm assuming this isn't exactly safe to drive with as it will just do more damage correct? The car doesn't handle any different but the noise(s) it makes are scaring me and I don't want to ruin it more then it is already ruined. Any suggestions would be wonderful. Can one run without said rear sway bar?

Thanks

Edited July 27, 2013 by Pomorza

[Pomorza]

So I pulled the sway bar off to see the extent of the damage. The passenger's side mount literally sheared off the car, there's no rust, it literally just came off. Attached is the picture. I'm currently going to run without the sway bar in there rear until I figure out what to do with this.

Thanks guys

Jan

[FastWoman]

I won't swear to it, but I think there are (local) spring shops that can make you a custom sway bar. At least there was a shop local to me where I lived long ago. They made me a coil spring.