Zed Head Posted July 27, 2013 Share #25 Posted July 27, 2013 It's the mount, not the bar, if I read it right.If it was my car, I might just take the mount (off of the bar) and the car to a "muffler" shop and ask if they can weld it back on. The old marks are still on the car and exhaust-building pros are used to welding thin metal. Might be less than $50, I would guess. Clean up the mount and the spot on the car first and it will be even cheaper. Worst case, they'll just give some advice on why it won't work, and the right way to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pomorza Posted July 28, 2013 Author Share #26 Posted July 28, 2013 Thank guys for the suggestions. I've talked to a few people I know and may end up buying the anti-roll bars sold by Beta Motorsports. If anyone has any reasons why not to do that, or any other suggestions let me know. ThanksJan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZCurves Posted July 30, 2013 Share #27 Posted July 30, 2013 I would do what Zed Head suggests. As for the Beta Motorsports anti-roll bars, I do not believe that you will realize a payback for the investment - besides you will need to have a place to mount them. IMHO - You will get more benefit from Urethane Bushings than a new roll bar setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonV Posted July 30, 2013 Share #28 Posted July 30, 2013 I would do what Zed Head suggests. As for the Beta Motorsports anti-roll bars, I do not believe that you will realize a payback for the investment - besides you will need to have a place to mount them. IMHO - You will get more benefit from Urethane Bushings than a new roll bar setup.I don't think you understand, John sells ST ARBs which mount to the rear transverse link supports and not the frame.It all comes down to what you want. Do you WANT stiffer ARBs? If the answer is no, then go with the weld-it-back-up idea. Might as well do bushings and end-links at the same time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pomorza Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share #29 Posted August 1, 2013 Guys, Thanks for the suggestions. The bushings and end links are all new, I replaced them about a year ago with brand new poly bushings. As for wedling it back on, I've driven without it for about a week now and find that I actually enjoy it. Yes the suspension is a bit bouncier but its all good. ThanksJan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonV Posted August 1, 2013 Share #30 Posted August 1, 2013 Guys, Thanks for the suggestions. The bushings and end links are all new, I replaced them about a year ago with brand new poly bushings. As for wedling it back on, I've driven without it for about a week now and find that I actually enjoy it. Yes the suspension is a bit bouncier but its all good. ThanksJanNot sure what you mean by the suspension being "a bit bouncier" but removing the rear ARB should not be detrimental to around-town driving. It will only be noticeable when the car is driven harder, as an increase in steady-state understeer. The ARB does nothing if both wheels are in jounce/rebound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pomorza Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share #31 Posted August 2, 2013 LeonIn turns its a bit bouncier, as in a bit more rear end happy, understeer was what I was getting at. I drove it rather hard the night I pulled the bar off to see what the changes were. ThanksJan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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