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should i remove cali emissoin eqip from my 71 240z


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Hello all I recently became the proud owner of hls30-41540 She's a 71 240 thr car runs and drives beautiful but I want to get some more hp. It has the California emissions on it. Should I remove the air pump and all the emission crap or is it rare enough to leave it alone the car is all original I am the 3rd owner. Also are the Su carbs different on the cali models

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You're not gaining anything noticeable by removing emissions equipment. I don't get the logic of polluting way more just to get maybe 2-3hp, that is if your emissions equipment works.

If you want peppier acceleration, install a 5-speed and at least 3.9 rear diff. A lightweight flywheel also helps and could be installed in conjunction with the transmission. No extra power is needed, torque multiplication and reduction of reciprocating weight does a better job of increasing acceleration than trying to squeeze out enough power to do the same.

FWIW, USA-bound 240Zs got rather sluggish transmission and rear diff ratios. The 3.36 rear with a wide-ratio 4-speed is not a great complement to the engine. Europe and Japan were better off with standard lower-geared diffs and 5-speeds.

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FWIW, USA-bound 240Zs got rather sluggish transmission and rear diff ratios. The 3.36 rear with a wide-ratio 4-speed is not a great complement to the engine. Europe and Japan were better off with standard lower-geared diffs and 5-speeds.

Actually the US market stock '72-'76 4 speed trans and 3.36 combo adds up to some pretty nice short ratios. When you start mixing and matching transmissions and differentials is when you see sluggish performance sometimes, just an aside. To go quick you gotta keep it in the power band is all.

Transmission and Rear End Gear Ratios

That aside, to be perfectly honest I've never seen a 240z with the smog equipment still installed, I'd be tempted to keep it. Just don't ditch the belt and leave everything else installed for anything more than a quick test, that will destroy the smog pump because it is designed to have positive pressure to prevent backflow of somewhat corrosive hot exhaust gasses. I'd be interested to see some dyno numbers with and without smog pump running, everybody cries about parasitic loss but I have no idea how much power the smog pump actually consumes.

EDIT: Whatever you do, don't go hog wild and remove everything. For instance the PCV system is completely beneficial and has no drawbacks.

Edited by Captain_Zeros
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No, you should NOT remove emissions equipment. The HP gain will be negligible and you may also INDUCE some problems, like pinging.

The best strategy is to get the emissions equipment working the way it is INTENDED to, repairing it if necessary, especially EGR.

Not to mention the problems you (or a future owner) will eventually run into trying to get it smogged if you rip everything off. You will markedly decrease the value of the machine to a collector as well.

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IIRC, the only difference for the California models in '71 was the carb needles - I think. The air pump and the rest were the same as 49 state. There was no EGR in '71 on any of them.

I pretty much agree with all the above replies, and will add that having the intact emissions gear is rare enough these days that potential buyers told me that they considered the fact that my car still had it a selling feature or bonus.

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Thanks everyone for the responses they were more than helpful. I don't know much about these early z's but I've always loved them. I have decided to keep her stock seeing as I'm the 3rd owner and everything is intact.I was hoping to drop a v8 in her but my inner car guy won't allow me to at this point.

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Actually the US market stock '72-'76 4 speed trans and 3.36 combo adds up to some pretty nice short ratios. When you start mixing and matching transmissions and differentials is when you see sluggish performance sometimes, just an aside. To go quick you gotta keep it in the power band is all.

Transmission and Rear End Gear Ratios

FWIW, the 3-4 jump is substantial with the 4-speed/3.36 when compared to Euro/JDM market Zs. The other ratios aren't as different, but a little lower on the 5-speed cars. Maybe not a huge difference on paper, but definitely noticeable when driving back-to-back.

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