Can't sell it, IT WON"T START!!!

[mjr45]

Well I was going to put the Z up for sale but now I can't. It has been running very well with multiple stops and turning it off. Today it ran great all day except the left turn signal quit working (bulbs are all good), got home and went to move it and no start, no lights, no fuel pump no nothing except the dome light which goes on and off, if I hit the Hazard switch the dome blinks with the blinker of the hazard. Nothing else works. Battery checked and is above 12V, fusible links check fine, no blown fuses. What the hell is going on? Maybe its rebelling for wanting to sell her!

[Captain Obvious]

Corroded battery cable(s). Clean the connections between the lugs and the posts?

[mjr45]

Nope they're clean.

[darom]

Nope they're clean.

I have a 76, if I remember correctly the turn signal wiring all goes through the hazard switch. I took mine apart and cleaned it. It was corroded. That fixed my driver's side signal. Give it a shot.

Regards!

[Captain_Zeros]

If it's only one side of the signal, that points to the turn signal switch on the column, when you have a corroded hazard switch it eats all your turn signals both sides front & back. However, a hit & miss turn signal switch shouldn't have anything to do with losing all of your wiring at once, and I'm pretty sure the dome light has nothing to do with the turn signal wiring (or more accurately, SHOULDN'T). If you've lost everything at once and the battery still has current my hunch wants to say there is either a big short to ground (but that should be blowing fuses, fusable links, or lighting something on fire) or a faulty ground (either not making good contact or there is voltage at the ground. If you put 12 volts to both sides of a lightbulb there is 0 volts difference between each side and no current will flow, ta da no lights)

Are you comfortable with a multimeter? Check for voltage between chassis ground & various systems, see if you can find where the fault is. Alternatively disconnect the battery and check resistance (ohms) between things that should be attached (eg there should be close to no resistance between the negative battery cable's battery terminal & chassis ground, they're two ends of the same wire so to speak).

If you're not comfortable with a multimeter (many people aren't!) then I'd suggest getting somebody who is to lay eyes on the car.

Edit: How did you confirm fuses and fusable links are fine? It's possible for fuses to fail and still pass a visual checkout, for instance if they blow close to one of the ends or blow halfway, it's not real common but it has got plenty of people in the past.

Edited July 18, 2013 by Captain_Zeros

[71Nissan240Z]

You need to start systematically troubleshooting your electrical circuits. Start by verifying ur ignition switch works. Use a meter or test light. If that's okay. Power runs through ur taco. Make sure the plug and connections are good. If all checks good then the car should atleast turn over.

If u don't wanna check ur ignition switch at the switch u can verify accessory power at the accessory fuse. The start circuit unfortunately u will need to test at the switch.

[71Nissan240Z]

At this point the hazard switch has nothing to do with a no crank or accessory power issue.

[mjr45]

I've checked the fuse panel and the fusible links with a multimeter. The fuse panel shows 0 volts, the fusible links read same as the battery voltage, checking both sides of the link. There is no juice getting to the fuse box.

[71Nissan240Z]

Check ur connection at the amp meter. Power goes through that.

[71Nissan240Z]

Key must be in the on position.

[71Nissan240Z]

Also there is a plug at the firewalls make sure the pins are in good shape.

[71Nissan240Z]

Sorry I. Keep posting. But there is also a fuseable think close to the fuse panel. In that area.