Here you go. I've got more too.

It's not pretty but it works.

Edited July 22, 201311 yr by siteunseen

Looks good to me!

One question or concern perhaps. Is that glass filter at the front of the rail rated for FI pressures? Might we worth a check.

I'd be concerned about that filter too. If that glass smacks something metal while you're driving there will be fuel spraying all over the hot exhaust.

Chuck

I cleaned my gas tank and lined it with Red Kote, that's the reason for that filter, to look for red gas. I guess I've been lucky with those glass filters because I've had them on everything from boats to lawnmowers and have never had a leak but I take care as to not offer any metal to glass contact, Zip-ties. As for the pressure rating I've never seen anything on the packages and that one has been dry since I first cranked it on August 8th, '12. I'm overly cautious inside my garage because I live above it and am constantly checking for leaks and smelling for them too. That glass is thick and according to my buddy that plays they make a good guitar slide for 1/4 of the price at a music shop.

Well after a year without red gas I guess i should delete that filter and give it to my guitar picking friend, I don't stay lucky too long. Maybe I'll buy myself a guit-fiddle.

Thank mate that does look rather nice

Do have a few questions.

1. Did you trim your return line - the metal one - so that it lines up with the firewall?

2. What fuel pressure regulator did you use?

3. How hard was it to build that fuel rail? Did you just used standard brass fittings - from a hardware store - or did you use special fittings?

Thanks. I'm only asking as the only thing remaining on my intake that bother's me is the fuel rail everything esle is neatly squared away and tidy after I rewired it.

Thanks

Jan

I ran a low pressure fuel line from the '78 or newer FPR, only 1 inlet & 1 out; $30 from rockauto.com, to the return hardline without trimming or moving it. The fuel rail was fairly easy and $50 bucks is all it cost but I already had the 1/4" tap and borrowed a drill press. Oh yeah the cost: $20 for the aluminium fuel rail stock of ebay, Raw Dash 6 Fuel Rail Extrusion Sold by The Foot RMR 019 | eBay, I bought 2 feet. The 3/8" tap for the ends cost $10 from a local plumbing supply house. All the fittings, 1/2" for the ends and 5/16" for the 6 injectors plus a tube of high temp thread sealant from Permatex was the other $20. Most important thing was making sure everything stays level in the drill press when drilling the holes and your bench vise when your tapping the threads. I'll try and find the measurments for the holes. Post #21, Thanks again to Willoughby, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-systems-s30/43897-make-fuel-rail.html

I didn't put in a barb for the CSV, ran a "T" off the back end, left to the FPR and right to the CSV. Find somebody with taps & drill bits.

Edited July 23, 201311 yr by siteunseen

Thank mate

I don't actually run a CVS as I have Megasquirt so I just add more fuel through the injectors - much simpler then adding another injector. I have access to a machine shop as long as I can get a hold of the guy that runs it so all the drilling/tappin/threading should be rather simple. To make sure I've listed what I need to do below.

Two 1/2 holes on either end of the fuel rail

Six 5/16 holes for the six injectors

What is the 3/8's for exactly? Sorry want to get this down the best I can before tackling it.

Thanks

Thank mate

I don't actually run a CVS as I have Megasquirt so I just add more fuel through the injectors - much simpler then adding another injector. I have access to a machine shop as long as I can get a hold of the guy that runs it so all the drilling/tappin/threading should be rather simple. To make sure I've listed what I need to do below.

Two 1/2 holes on either end of the fuel rail

Six 5/16 holes for the six injectors

What is the 3/8's for exactly? Sorry want to get this down the best I can before tackling it.

Thanks

The aluminium rail stock has a 1/2" hole already through it so a 3/8" NPT tap will thread the 2 ends. 1/4" NPT tap threads the 6 injector holes, can't remember drill bit size though. And the brass hose barbs I used were 5/16 x 1/4 NPT times 6, and 5/16 x 3/8 NPT times 2.

Make sure and use High Temp thread sealer. I at first used something red, maybe Loc-Tite and after a few drives it started to drip on my heat shield. It was only the excess red sealer on the outside of the rail, no fuel ever leaked but after I found that Permatex stuff that was opaque colored I took it all back apart and resealed all the threads then removed the heat shields and repainted the horizontal one. Looks today like it did then, no drips, no nothing. Very happy with how it turned out and it really does simplify all that mess. I can take the rail with all 6 injectors still connected off in 10 minutes.

Edited July 24, 201311 yr by siteunseen

That's too easy! How'd you mount your FPR?

Edited July 24, 201311 yr by siteunseen