I recently purchased 3-2 header from MSA outlet store for cheap. Now im about to build a exhaust pipe, cause i cannot afford to buy pre producted items and exhaust shops are dayum expensive around here.

SO after i take the old pipe out, should i first try to build the pipe outside the car, imitating old pipe or just put the pieces one by one under the car? I cannot weld it under the car as i have to drag that pipe to my neighbour, who has the equipment and skills, but i can use these "tensioners" to keep the pipe in one piece.

Suggestions and hints are taken.

One suggestion, is to put a flange in the pipe about halfway back from the header and make the exhaust a 2 or 3 piece affair. Header to flange, flange to muffler, etc. It will make putting it all together much easier and you won't have to weld under the car.

I agree with mjr45. I installed a flange and a flex pipe from Summit Racing. It makes installation much easier and should reduce the stress on the manifold studs.

That's going to make it tough to drag next door to weld . My suggestion would be to have the welder ONLY TACK weld the pipes and retest fit. Just incase the alignment is not right. I don't know what you mean by " tensioners", but it's hard to keep things on place before welding. That's why most tact weld on car .

A tiny change in orientation at the fittings will affect how the pipes fit when you reinstall. A couple of degrees off, longitudinally or rotationally, at a flange can equal an inch or two at the other end of the pipe. You might consider drilling holes and using strap steel and screws while it's on the car to get a rigid assembly. It would be like a mechanical tack weld. You can fill the screw holes during welding.

I had a factory down pipe that looked perfect, even during assembly, but was off just enough so that I couldn't tuck it up to hang it without getting a leak.

Double. Got re-directed to the full editor for some reason.

I only welded my flanges to the header collector and to the flex. That allowed me to still rotate the outlet pipe in the flex. There was no welding on the car.

Thought about doing my exhaust (2 1/4" pipe) myself, but glad I bit the bullet and had a local independent muffler shop do it. Seems like a hard job without real expertise, especially in a Z - low to the ground so you need to get every bit of ground clearance possible. Not easy for a pro - impossible for me. They got it done in one day, all welded construction, painted it with ceramic paint too.

Would never taken it to one of those big chain places, it probably would have been a thousand dollars. The local guy I knew only charged me $400 including a nice turbo muffler.

Thought about doing my exhaust (2 1/4" pipe) myself, but glad I bit the bullet and had a local independent muffler shop do it. Seems like a hard job without real expertise, especially in a Z - low to the ground so you need to get every bit of ground clearance possible. Not easy for a pro - impossible for me. They got it done in one day, all welded construction, painted it with ceramic paint too.

Would never taken it to one of those big chain places, it probably would have been a thousand dollars. The local guy I knew only charged me $400 including a nice turbo muffler.

I think you got lucky to get it done that cheap.

Dig it. He likes Datsuns, doesn't get to work on many.

Edited July 24, 201311 yr by Stanley

A local exhaust shop did my entire 2" twin pipe system, including parts and materials, for $300. I shopped around about 6 different shops and not only was this guy cheaper (one man show), but also more experienced.

You just have to find the right shop, but it's probably a bit tougher to do so in Finland...

Yea well i guess it kinda is. We have fever people in whole country than LA downtown. Im planning to do it basically on zero budget (exhaust parts are cheap, 5-15 bucks each) If i make the pipe under the car and tighten it well enough with these:

it should last the 100 yard transportation to the neighbour so he can make tack welds...right?

A suggestion... try to move away from three bolt flange connections. Slip fit with collector springs, bolted tabs, or t-bolt clamps saves weight, increases ground clearance, eliminates gaskets, and generally has a better flow.