Weber DCOE throttle cable install | Parts list with basic descriptions

[TBone028]

By request, I figured I show some pics of how I ran my throttle cable on my Weber DCOE's. I wanted the least amount of permanent modification as possible, and I think I was able to accomplish it with a great pedal feel and smooth action/return without any binding.

Parts list:

- Lokar 36in throttle cable, I used p/n: LOK-TC-1000U36 ($48 from Summitracing)

- 5/16" Quick Disconnect Ball Joint Assembly (sorry, I dont have the part number: size 5/16-24) ($15 for 2 from Amazon.com)

- 5/16" (8mm) rod arm p/n: 99006.251 ($8 from pierce manifolds)

- DCOE bottom mount cable bracket, p/n: 40930 ($33 from Pierce Manifolds)

- DCOE external spring kit, p/n: LT5000 ($32 from Pierce Manifolds)

- 16" stainless steel linkage rod, 5/16" thick p/n: 36016 ($13 from piercemanifolds)

- quantity 2, 5/16" shaft collars p/n: 99024.350 ($13 from piercemanifolds)

- Last piece was the firewall bracket that replaced the bell crank. I received it from HybridZ member Savage42 for $25. This could probably be made for you DIY'ers. Its just a bracket with holes drilled that match the holes in the firewall, along with a hole for the Lokar throttle cable sheath fitting.

Total cost: ~$187 I'm sure some of you more creative/thrifty folks have done something similar for a whole lot cheaper...but this was all readily available, off-the-shelf products (minus the firewall bracket, you will likely have to make that) delivered to my door.

The Lokar throttle cable has one end with a ball and cup (1/4") that can be disconnected. Unfortunately the cup is too small to fit over the datsun pivot ball. You could probably drill out the datsun pivot ball and use the lokar ball/bolt part, but I didnt want to modify a NLA part. So, I took the 5/16 quick disconnect ball joint and slid it over the lokar cable end, and bonded the two permanently in place with JB Weld. Be careful when setting it with JB weld, there is a small hole in the lokar cable end and JB weld can fill up where the throttle cable is tightened down with a small screw.

I like the quick-disconnect because it takes me all of 30 seconds to completely disconnect my throttle cable to make adjustments. Plus, I didnt have to crawl under the dash and modify the gas pedal at all. The only other "modification" I had to do was trim the cable sheath 3" to give me more cable wire. Here's a pic of the cable that shows both ends of the cable, cable end on top attaches near the firewall, cable end on the bottom attaches to the extra rod arm on the main linkage rod)

And here's a pic of the cable end prior to being JB welded to the quick-disconnect joint. Ignore part number S1034 in the picture, its just a spare cable end I purchased in case I wanted to redo it.

And here's a pic of it in place along with the firewall bracket from Savage42:

To connect the throttle cable to the carb/linkage, I used the DCOE bottom mount cable bracket from PierceManifolds, and a small L shaped bracket (not shown) I had leftover from an old universal choke cable. This allows you to attach the other end of the lokar cable sheath fitting to the carb, and then the cable and clevis to the extra rod arm on the main linkage rod.

Here's a pic of the bottom mount from Pierce Mainfolds, and it attached to the center carb.

Lastly, the return spring is fitted to my 1st carb closest to the radiator...its the only return spring I'm running and with all the rods/arms attached to the carb/main linkage rod, all carbs return fully to the throttle stops.

Based on some other posts, seems like I'm of the lucky few that is able to run all three rod ends on my intake manifold (brand is Redline). With my throttle cable rod arm mounted closely to the center rod end, I have good mechanical advantage and solid support to avoid bending the linkage rod. I've read some other experiences of folks only being able to run two rod ends due to uneven spacing and in some cases, the linkage rod flexing/being bent. I believe a fix for some folks has been re-drilling the manifold to accept 3/8 rod ends and a beefy 3/8" rod. Or filling the center rod end mount with JB weld, and re-drilling to be centered correctly.

Hope this helps someone, it probably took me a solid few days of thinking about and finding all the parts online I would need to make everything work as I envisioned.