Unless you set up a draft pipe to send the gas and oil under the car, you will have a dirty and oily engine compartment if you just let the vapours exit the block and breather. Recycling to the intake manifold or exhaust pipe is cleaner.

Almost related to the topic but didnt want to flood the site with my "asking stupid questions" threads: i looked into few options and it seems that the wire controlled throttle is easiest and cheapest to do. I wonder does anyone sell "ready to go" sets for Z? Also if not, is there any good write-ups about doing one?

My SK's are going in this month and i hope to fire them up before first snow falls.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/50008-weber-dcoe-throttle-cable-install-%7C-parts-list-basic-descriptions.html

Lokar Throttle Kickdowns

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/carburetors-s30/44905-need-pics-triple-mikuni-linkage-especially-firewall.html

cable throttle linkage - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z

Sheesh! Thanks for the links! Too bad there aint no "plug and play" options on this one.. It would be too easy then!

Maybe get a motorcycle mechanic to build one. They do a lot of clutch and brake cables which are similar.

I fould this:

McKinney Throttle Cable and Bracket - Datsun 240Z S30 - Raw Brokerage

Another partial kit:

Throttle Cable Conversion Kit - Interest? Does not require a different Throttle Body - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z

A great DIY:

CABLE_INSTALL

Edited October 15, 201311 yr by Blue

Each throat has a brass stub to block a choke from sliding back and hanging up the throttle plate.

3 progression holes precisely drilled in a line

A ported vacuum hole (left of the progression holes). I think this will improve highway mpg as it is located where the throttle plate will be when cruising.

Dual rod accelerator pump with brass cylinder wall sleeves

Return spring similar to DCO50/55's

Edited October 16, 201311 yr by Blue

Jet tower casting

Note the rubber figure 8 O-rings that could dissolve in carb cleaner.

The passage to the main circuit's aux venturi is ~23.5 mm down from the top ledge.

Carb body with the jet tower removed.The tower is keyed and slides in. A screw in the bottom secures it.

The body casting has holes on each side for accessories. A nice throttle return spring and bracket is typically attached here. the other side could hold a heat reflecting shield.

There are 3 retaining holes for the venturi/choke, aux venturi, and front tube.

Edited October 16, 201311 yr by Blue

So I just received my new SK float level sight tube, costly but very nicely made, apparently it can be used on Webers and Solex carbs as well. All of my fuel levels were 2-4mm too low.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]66163[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]66164[/ATTACH]

I saw this on an excellent Japanese racing/tuning site (http://www.carry-back.com):

[TABLE=class: grid, width: 500, align: center]

<tbody>[TR]

[TD=align: center]MFGR[/TD]

[TD=align: center]CARB[/TD]

[TD=align: center]Fuel Level from top[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=align: center]SOLEX (Mikuni PHH) 4 type[/TD]

[TD=align: center]40φ 44φ[/TD]

[TD=align: center]19-20[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=align: center]

[/TD]

[TD=align: center]50φ[/TD]

[TD=align: center]20-21[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=align: center]WEBER[/TD]

[TD=align: center]DCOE 8, 9[/TD]

[TD=align: center]29[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=align: center]

[/TD]

[TD=align: center]DCOE 152,151[/TD]

[TD=align: center]29[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=align: center]OER[/TD]

[TD=align: center]40φ 45φ 47φ 50φ[/TD]

[TD=align: center]29-31[/TD]

[/TR]

</tbody>[/TABLE]

On a 240z resto, and my first kick-at-the-can of webers, I set DCOE 152's at 25mm (high fuel level) as per Keith Franke. It seems to bring the main in earlier and i run leaner idles than most report.

As mentioned above, the OER 40mm overflow point in the well is ~ 23.5mm down from the ledge compared to a weber's 23mm as reported by Keith Franke.

So it seems the Carry-Back site sets the fuel ~6mm below the main jet well's overflow/spill point compared to Keith Franke's 2mm-below-overflow.

The Carry-Back site discusses acceleration and fuel sloshing so a lower fuel level may be better for racing and high-g driving.

Edited October 17, 201311 yr by Blue

The same tuning site gives these idle enrichment screw settings:

[TABLE=class: grid, width: 500, align: center]

<tbody>[TR]

[TD=align: center]MFGR[/TD]

[TD=align: center]Idle Screw[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=align: center]SOLEX40φ, 44φ (4 type) 　[/TD]

[TD=align: center]2 turns ± 90 °[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=align: center]SOLEX (Mikuni PHH) 50φ[/TD]

[TD=align: center]1/2 turn ± 90 °[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=align: center]WEBER DCOE 152,151 [/TD]

[TD=align: center]2 to 3 turns[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=align: center]WEBER DCOE 9, 50φ[/TD]

[TD=align: center]1/2 to 1 turn[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=align: center]OER 　[/TD]

[TD=align: center]2 turns ± 180 °[/TD]

[/TR]

</tbody>[/TABLE]

Philip,

Is there a Japanese to English translation of:

ƒKƒŒ[ƒW@ƒLƒƒƒŠ[ƒoƒbƒN ????

Philip,

Is there a Japanese to English translation of the info at: carryback.com?

Philip,

Is there a Japanese to English translation of:

ƒKƒŒÂ[ƒW@ƒLƒƒƒŠÂ[ƒoƒbƒN ????

Philip,

Is there a Japanese to English translation of the info at: carryback.com?

Google Chrome translates automatically. Google used to have a great translate tool but it has been dumbed down and works much worse than what they use in chrome.... the web was taken from us geeks!

Here is a watered down Google translation

http://translate.google.ca/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.carry-back.com

Edited October 17, 201311 yr by Blue