Distributor removal

[Coastalman]

It has been over 30 years since I worked on a Z points distributor and I need the forum's help to see if I remember this correctly. I want to change the points on my stock '72 Z. Is it correct to be able to unbolt the distributor from the block, take it out, put in new points and condenser, set the points and put the distributor back in without losing timing? I think the shaft is keyed so that it can only go back in one way.

Thanks,

Charlie

[SteveJ]

You should only need to pull the distributor cap to replace the points and condenser. The distributor body stays attached to the engine. You will probably need to check the dwell and timing afterward, no matter what.

[Coastalman]

Steve, it is not as easy as it used to be to catch the little screws that have to come out when doing the pts and cond. My Healey has the ability to take the whole distributor out and that makes things very easy. I think the Z has the same capability. That is what I am trying to accomplish if I can.

Thanks,

Charlie

[SteveJ]

You could always try holding one of these near the screws.

Yes, you can take out the distributor. Directions are in the EE section of the FSM. It is advisable to put your engine at TDC to reduce the chance of screwing up your timing, but the distributor can only go in correctly or 180 degrees out of phase.

[Captain Obvious]

but the distributor can only go in correctly

You should have stopped there...

It can't be inserted 180 degrees out of phase. The drive key on the shaft is not centered. It will only engage in one position.

[Coastalman]

That is what I thought I remembered. Good to know my memory hasn't let me down on this, but I had to make sure.

[Captain Obvious]

And for the original question...

Yes, you can pull the entire distributor out by removing the two screws at the very base where it joins with the front timing cover and doing it that way should preserve the original timing because all of the timing adjustment mechanism(s) will come out with it still locked in place.

There may be some tiny clearance in the screws that could account for a fraction of a degree or so, but nothing major. You're likely to introduce more change by having a new follower riding on the cam once you change the points. And as mentioned above... It's probably prudent to check timing and dwell when you're done regardless of how you do it.

[zKars]

Removing the distributor base at the 2 bolt location will require a new gasket for that connection unless this has been apart recently. The old one will separate.

More trouble than its worth. Mark the plates (Sharpy!) where the 10mm headed timing adjustment bolt locks them together to note their alignment and take that one bolt out. Pull dizzy straight out, it can only go back in one way (tang at the end is offset, no 180 out is possible). Easy peasy.

[beermanpete]

Another option: The adjustment plate has a vernier with degree marks on it. Simply note the position prior to removal. As long as you don't loosen the "hidden" adjustment it will be easy to get it set-up in the same position using the vernier.

Keep in mind that you should check the timing after servicing the points. If you do not have a timing light set the timing with a buzz box or a test light.

[SteveJ]

I'll have to admit that I've never put in the distributor 180 degrees out, but I know I've read a few posts where people wound up with it that way. I did make sure the engine was at or near TDC, though.

I wonder how people ended up 180 out.

[madkaw]

Not sure if it's more trouble then it's worth. I've never had that gasket come apart and 2 bolts is pretty easy. The gasket would be easy to make if damaged of get a new one. Less chance of changing timing this way.

But still, that is another option:)

[madkaw]

I'll have to admit that I've never put in the distributor 180 degrees out, but I know I've read a few posts where people wound up with it that way. I did make sure the engine was at or near TDC, though.

I wonder how people ended up 180 out.

I believe that happens when the oil pump is dropped out and the shaft is not oriented correctly.