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Tachometer/igniton/distributor


3ryce

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Ok, so I have a 73 240z all stock. I currently have a blaster 2 ignition coil. The Tachometer worked with the original ignition coil. However does not with this one. I bought the 8920 adapter. However thats usless unless I buy the 200+ dollar 6A/AL. anyways, my question is to get it working what are my options besides buying the 6A. even if its a little more money. Like could I buy a MSD dizzy and a tachometer from a 280z or zx. or even a tach from speedhut. I kinda dont really want the adapters. and I want to avoid adding extra wires. So i guess you could say im looking for a almost just bolt in solution. Ive searched the thread over on hybridz but their replys seem to take a few weeks to months, I kinda need to get this going asap. Thanks for your thought and ideas. and if you have done something to your ignition set up please share. Thanks guys!

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You never answered the question about what you're trying to do over on Hybridz. And the last reply on that thread was three days ago, not weeks or months.

Put the stock coil back on if you want the tach to work.

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Your right I did not. But in one of the last post I posted I simply stated that im trying to get my tach to work. pretty plain and simple. I would put it back on, however I do not have it. and ya I did start asking about some info in April. But your right i didnt exactly state what was going on. Ive been trying to make that more clear. now that were past my mistakes i have admitted to can we work on a solution. Heres exactly what im trying to do. Get my tach to work with my current ignition coil. I dont really want to buy a 6A or AL. So knowing that. Is there something I can do with buying a different distributor and tachometer or not?

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The Blaster 2 coil has 0.7 ohms primary resistance and the stock 73 240Z has 1.5 to 1.7. It's not the right coil for the 240Z ignition system, despite what MSD's sales literature implies. Could be why the tach doesn't work, you're passing too much current through the tach.

Good luck with the problem and the attitude.

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This topic has come up before. I replied in the thread below, but I think that my understanding was off. With the Blaster 2 and points you're supposed to install an extra 0.8 resistor. Which would drop the primary resistance to 1.5 ohms, the original value. That might be your solution. Might also be what Nigel was referring to in your Hybridz thread. And, it's in the MSD instructions.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/44994-msd-blaster-2-installed-onto-72-240z-idling-become-unstable.html

Instructions:

Blaster 2 Coil w/Ballast & Hardware - 8203

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3ryce, it would help if you were to provide additional info about your car. What type of ignition are you using? Points? Pertronix? Electronic module from a newer Z? Other? Anyhow, from what I can determine your car is running fine and primary goal is to get a functioning tach. So go buy an aftermarket tach already. That is your easiest and cheapest solution. As for the use of the adapter with or without the MSD ignition system, ask MSD, it's there product.

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The Blaster 2 coil has 0.7 ohms primary resistance and the stock 73 240Z has 1.5 to 1.7. It's not the right coil for the 240Z ignition system, despite what MSD's sales literature implies. Could be why the tach doesn't work, you're passing too much current through the tach.

Good luck with the problem and the attitude.

Thank you thats alot more information than ive ever gotten. I do not have an attitude. not trying to. but anyways. thanks for the information its new and what im looking for. Which wires would I have to add more resistance to? one of the wires on the balisist.

3ryce, it would help if you were to provide additional info about your car. What type of ignition are you using? Points? Pertronix? Electronic module from a newer Z? Other? Anyhow, from what I can determine your car is running fine and primary goal is to get a functioning tach. So go buy an aftermarket tach already. That is your easiest and cheapest solution. As for the use of the adapter with or without the MSD ignition system, ask MSD, it's there product.

Its all stock. beermanpete. only thing not original is the MSD blaster 2 ignition coil. Im pretty sure and according to the fsm its current point as well. Oh and about a different new tachometer. ide have to make sure it was a current type pick up right? and the current one is based on an inductive loop correct? so ide have to kinda match that? and even then would i still have to install some more resistance to get the new one to work as well? thanks sorry for all the questions.

This topic has come up before. I replied in the thread below, but I think that my understanding was off. With the Blaster 2 and points you're supposed to install an extra 0.8 resistor. Which would drop the primary resistance to 1.5 ohms, the original value. That might be your solution. Might also be what Nigel was referring to in your Hybridz thread. And, it's in the MSD instructions.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/44994-msd-blaster-2-installed-onto-72-240z-idling-become-unstable.html

Instructions:

Blaster 2 Coil w/Ballast & Hardware - 8203

I will check out the links. if i could get away with that then that would be my solution. do you know if it says where to add the resistor to?

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Open the link labeled Blaster 2 Coil w/Ballast..., then click on the tab that says Instructions, to see the drawing of wire connections. It's a PDF file.

Of course, you're probably on a phone with a tiny screen so won't be able to open or see the file. If so, you'll have to borrow a computer with a big screen.

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Thank you thats alot more information than ive ever gotten. I do not have an attitude. not trying to. but anyways. thanks for the information its new and what im looking for. Which wires would I have to add more resistance to? one of the wires on the balisist.

Its all stock. beermanpete. only thing not original is the MSD blaster 2 ignition coil. Im pretty sure and according to the fsm its current point as well. Oh and about a different new tachometer. ide have to make sure it was a current type pick up right? and the current one is based on an inductive loop correct? so ide have to kinda match that? and even then would i still have to install some more resistance to get the new one to work as well? thanks sorry for all the questions.

I will check out the links. if i could get away with that then that would be my solution. do you know if it says where to add the resistor to?

You want to buy a tach that uses a voltage pick-up. This will have a wire that connects to the negative terminal of the coil. Most aftermarket tachs are this type. Considering that no new cars have points anymore some aftermarket tachs might not work with a points type ignition system so make sure to choose a tach that very clearly is designed to work with a points type ignition system.

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