71 240z with l28e w/ SU carbs wont start... PLS HELP!!!

[Mr.Green the Great]

ok first im sorry if i posted this in the wrong section ... im new to forums ...

ive searched for a while on what it could be but im having no luck...

the caricon1.png ran fine before i parked it like 2 weeks ago... i had it in my garage doing a clutch replacement... never turned the motor counter clockwise or nothing like that

did that and the oil pan gasket...

the only thing i did to the motor besides the gasket was change the plug wires, spark plugs, and remove the intake (orange air box) from the carbs... one of the tubes on the intake(orange air box) that the hose from the carb to the intake(orange air box) was bent shut so i put a new one on ...

now my car will not start... it turns over but wont start.... i get small backfired out of the exhaust... a couple from my carbs aswell ...

i have checked for spark wich i have... put fuel in the carbs...

i put the motor a tdc and it pointed to the number one plug...

i know my firing order is correct 153624 and they are plugged in to the right cylinders... 123456 front being number 1

my plugs are gapped at .040

im at a loss ...

any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!!!

i havent put my intake box back on ... could that be part of the problem?

im new to the z scene and new to carbs...

ive been in subarus and nothing else ....

please someone shed some light on this issue...

THANKS IN ADVANCE:ermm:

[zKars]

Welcome to the forum, sorry your first post has to be of the desparate kind.

Well, the most likely thing you did to prevent starting is the spark plug wire remove/replace has them now in the wrong positions. You have the order right, but did you count CCW or CW? its CCW on the dizzy.

Second thing, at TDC, #1 points forward toward the rad, kinda between the vacumm advance pot the cap clip. Is your #1 TDC rotor pointing backward toward the firewall? Maybe you were on the wrong piston stroke when you first found TDC. Pop the oil cap and find lobes for #1 pointing up (both are in front of the fill hole, get a flashlight) when the damper timing mark is at TDC compression stroke.

So confirm #1 TDC compression stroke with the plug out, both #1 cam lobes pointing up, damper timing mark near to zero as you can get it, and then when you see where #1 is on the cap, (doesn't matter where that turns out to be) install them CCW from there. Who knows who might have previously assembled the dizzy and its drive spindle/oil pump in some crazy out of "normal" place position, and just fixed it by putting the plug wires as needed. Been done many times.

Do you remember where #1 was on the cap when you removed the old wires? Not likely, but would have given you the reference you need now.

Let us know how you make out.

Edited July 30, 2013 by zKars

[Mr.Green the Great]

i have them set in ccw order

and it points toward the radiator... like u described

i will set it as close to 0 as possible and let u know what happens ...

THANKS for the quick response ... and didnt want my first post to be like this but thanks for the welcome

Edited July 30, 2013 by Mr.Green the Great

[Mr.Green the Great]

well my battery needs a charge from trying to start it.. got drained...

my ignition coil is getting really hot... like burn yourself if you touch it hot... and the little thing under it is cracked in half (looks ceramic has 2 prongs).... could this contribute to the problem?

[Mr.Green the Great]

also the gas i put in the carbs just stays in the top ... is it supposed to?

[Mr.Green the Great]

thats exactly how they were when it was running

also the wiring mess was how i bought it... cleaned it up already

[zKars]

The ceramic thing is your ballast resistor. Cracked is not critical, there is a fine resistor wire underneath it that can't be broken. the ceramic is just a heat proof place to put that wire as it gets hot doing its job. If the wire between its two terminals is broken, then the coil is not connected.

[Mr.Green the Great]

found out i put gas in my carbs at the wrong place... where the oil goes smh.... what will that do?

[zKars]

Eureka! Problem solved.

The two inlets on top of the fuel bowls are both safe to put fuel in. The one that sticks straight up is the bowl vent (connects to air cleaner) the more complex one on the side/top that is angled is the fuel inlet.

The very top of the round dome with the black plastic knob is where you add damper oil, you didn't somehow connect that to the gas supply did you?

[Mr.Green the Great]

no i didnt change the fuel or anything but what i mentioned above...

i put the gas in the damper at the top

im giving them a really good cleaning and hopefully that will make them function correctly ... and start!!! fingers Xed

[Stanley]

Some 20 wt. Three-in-one oil would be better than gas in the damper. Gas is just the wrong viscosity - probably won't hurt anything. Are those big wires from the battery attached to the bolts on the right side shock tower ? Not much of an electrician but don't remember seeing that before. Guess it's OK if it works, just wondering why. FSM - factory service manual.

[Mr.Green the Great]

yea ... the were attached at the pillars smh... i moved em to the correct locations... and im picking up 3in1 20wt at ace hardware now...