280Z Full Restore in 5 months, hopefully.

[CG240Z]

Could be timing especially if you are running a performance cam.

As far as the AFM goes, I still have my original one and have adjusted it numerous times. Just study all the thread on this site regarding it and it should make you feel more comfortable with it.

I'll check the timing. I've set it before with a timing light, but you know how that goes. It could have shifted.

Thanks for all the ideas, I have lots of avenues to explore.

[rcb280z]

Loosen the lock screw and rotate the dizzy back and forth and see if it changes the way it idles and go from there. For some reason I think a buddy had to retard his timing because of the performance cam. It ran better but not good because he didnt do anything else to the fuel system. He thought a performance cam was going to give him lots of power on a "stock EFI" and it didn't.

[TheCrazySwede]

I did check the lash pads, thinking maybe that was it. I called Web Cam where I bought it from and asked about it. They said as long as I can get .008 and .010 my lash pads are fine. Tight tolerances, but that's what it calls for.

Good idea on fuel pressure, I'll need to pick up a gauge.

If that is the case, then I suppose you're good on that end!

Let us know how your pressure is like. Should be around 36-38psi if I remember correctly. It should rise to 40-42psi when turned off if your pump and regulator are working properly...

[EuroDat]

The maximum "regulated" pressure is 36psig. My car runs at about 40psi which is a bit high. Normal is 36-38psi like TheCrazySwede just mentioned.

See attachment for the results of my test. I didn't think of doing a flow test under normal operating pressure which would of made it complete.

[CG240Z]

I ordered a fuel pressure gauge, should be here by Wednesday. I put a new fuel pump in the car, but it's just an Autozone special, I'm curious to see what it's doing.

[CG240Z]

Awesome picture Eurodat.

[CG240Z]

Adjusted the AFM by using the beer can method on the Atlantic Z website, it was a little off, so I adjusted it. Put the AFM back in and cranked the motor. Still popping out the exhaust, running rough, and not idling.

I left the cover off and played with the rotating mass as the engine ran, doing this I can get the engine to idle. So maybe I didn't adjust it enough? I'll look into that some more. At one point I was adjusting the timing and messing with the AFM to see if I could get it to run any better. Not much success.

I might have stumbled across something too. I'm not sure I'm running on all cylinders. I pulled the fuel injector harness on 6th plug and the engine didn't change much. I then pulled the plug with the fuel injection connected and I didn't notice a change. It's getting spark, I could see it arch when I put it close to the plug. This might be another avenue to look further into.

Hanging the can, you can't tell in the picture, but the can is hanging.

<a href="http://s254.photobucket.com/user/taillonml/media/280z/C1CD5374-9970-4495-B2E0-59BDBD759133.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh101/taillonml/280z/C1CD5374-9970-4495-B2E0-59BDBD759133.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo C1CD5374-9970-4495-B2E0-59BDBD759133.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s254.photobucket.com/user/taillonml/media/280z/C910DDFF-06FA-46C9-8A42-CF912C2A6D26.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh101/taillonml/280z/C910DDFF-06FA-46C9-8A42-CF912C2A6D26.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo C910DDFF-06FA-46C9-8A42-CF912C2A6D26.jpg"/></a>

[240260280z]

Sounds like a dirty or failed injector or something upstream from it, try and connect the #5 INJECTOR to the #6 CONNECTOR and the #6 INJECTOR to the #5 CONNECTOR to see if the problem moves to 5.

Cleaning all electrical connections in the EFI system is a good maintenance item.

[EuroDat]

Did you adjust the spring to give it more tension? Mine was about 125grams + the weight of the can. There was evidence of tempering in mine. You could see an indent in the whell where the screw first was and the sealant used on the cover wasn't original. I believe a past owner was compensating for ECU drift or tried to gain performance by richening the mixture.

You may need to do the "tempurature sensor resistor pod mod" to fine tune it. Its easy to do. I first used a 20k pod, but it was hard to fine tune. Mine is adjusted to about 1250ohm, but my AFM is probably not at the right tension. It now has a 5K pod.

Im having some problems with mine since I had a water in the fuel a couple of weeks ago. The PO did a lot of work, but the quality is in some places now showing. After playing with the injectors, it started missing badly and I found this.

Its still not right and now stutters under load or acceleration. Don't have time to check it now, but once easter has past Ill start investigating.

Chas

[Captain Obvious]

I'm not sure you did the calibration correctly... I think you have to use a Canadian beer. :bulb:

Seriously though, I wish I could tell if my AFM has been messed with. I've looked it over from every angle, and even with magnification, I can't tell for sure. I've got no glue blobs or marks that would indicate one way or the other. My cover had been popped by a previous owner, but I can't tell for sure what (if anything) he did in there.

[EuroDat]

Yer, Not sure what a Canadian beer can weight is, but my alcohol free club soda with a hook for the string comes in at 15grams. Probably should of used a Heiniken beer canLOL

When I adjusted the spring to 148grams plus can I couldn't fine tune with the Thermo pod resistor. Thats way I reduced the weight back to 135gr plus can. The temperature sensor was reading 2820ohms at 16degC. which is close to the FSM spec.

PS: I clamped the AFM mounting bracket in the bench vice. Didn't like the chances, and my luck would be a 95% chance, of the AFM free falling to the floor.

Chas

[CG240Z]

Still waiting on my fuel pressure gauge to come in. I ran a compression test on it today just to cross it off the list. All good. I might have stumbled across something. Plugs 1-4 were fouled, 5&6 were clean. I know the engine is running rich so that explains the foulness. But it looks like 5/6 are getting fuel, they are getting spark, but since they were not fouled this leads me to believe those cylinders aren't getting fuel. I clean the contacts on the injectors, that didn't seem to do anything.

Any suggestions on my next course action? Is there a way to test the individual injectors, or should I just buy 2 new ones? Thanks guys!

(Picture or it didn't happen)

<a href="http://s254.photobucket.com/user/taillonml/media/280z/C8F370DF-DFC2-4E41-86AC-4605B0E69C7D.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh101/taillonml/280z/C8F370DF-DFC2-4E41-86AC-4605B0E69C7D.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo C8F370DF-DFC2-4E41-86AC-4605B0E69C7D.jpg"/></a>