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280Z Full Restore in 5 months, hopefully.


CG240Z

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You can remove the connector one by one with the engine running. You should notice the revs drop per cylinder when you disconect it.

Another alternative is to lift the fuel rail with injectors. Do a run test with the spark plugs out and crank is on the starter for a short period and see what the injectors do.

I did that two years back to find two faulty (nr. 3 and 4) injectors.

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Chas

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You can remove the connector one by one with the engine running. You should notice the revs drop per cylinder when you disconect it.

Another alternative is to lift the fuel rail with injectors. Do a run test with the spark plugs out and crank is on the starter for a short period and see what the injectors do.

I did that two years back to find two faulty (nr. 3 and 4) injectors.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]70958[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]70960[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]70959[/ATTACH]

Chas

I just put 12 volts to the two suspected injectors, I can hear them clicking. Next will be to lift fuel rail and test crank it like you said. I might just end up ordering all new injectors since these could be original injectors and I know for a fact the car was sitting for 18 years with fuel in it.

I ordered new quick connect injector plugs since mine are in rough shape and cracked. I'm also thinking about ordering the Pallnet fuel injection rail system since I'll have everything pulled apart. I like the cleaner look of a simply fuel rail. Just keep throwing money at it until it runs right?? haha

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I got the two bad injectors flowing the same as the other four by reverse flushing, like Blue mentioned.

It was a crude simple set-up, but it did the job: 70cm garden hose fitted to the injector tip with a hose clamp, fitting on the other end for the air compressor, 9volt battery & connector. Continuous 12volts is not good for the injector coil and they open and close good with 9volts.

Filled the hose with a fuel and injector cleaner mix and blow it through with 1.5bar compressed air. Did that 3 or 4 times and they all cleaned up a lot. Its not perfect, but it got them all producing within 90% of each other back on the fuel rail.

If you are thinking of buying new injectors, now would probably be the time to do it. That would eliminate them as a cause and like you said; after 18 years of sitting with old fuel I suspect they will be a like mine were.

Chas

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Got my new fuel rail in, simply design, I like it. I started putting it together, but one of the injectors Rock Auto sent me is different so they are sending me a new one. I also noticed that with the new injector tip length is a bit shorter. Is this going to cause any problems? Picture below for reference.

New injector on left, old on right. Notice the differences in tip lengths.

<a href="http://s254.photobucket.com/user/taillonml/media/280z/63748141-0B89-4598-AA5A-06100CE68C83.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh101/taillonml/280z/63748141-0B89-4598-AA5A-06100CE68C83.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 63748141-0B89-4598-AA5A-06100CE68C83.jpg"/></a>

The new fuel rail. Tomorrow I am going to solder the new quick release injector clips onto the harness. Once I get the 6th injector, I'll be good to install this. Already have the ZX FPR. Will also need to buy some more injector hose.

<a href="http://s254.photobucket.com/user/taillonml/media/280z/82C5C464-D1C6-4DD4-B85B-EF9BB6CD4ECD.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh101/taillonml/280z/82C5C464-D1C6-4DD4-B85B-EF9BB6CD4ECD.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 82C5C464-D1C6-4DD4-B85B-EF9BB6CD4ECD.jpg"/></a>

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Those look the FJ3 or FJ707 injectors. They have a different nozzle shape but they all shoot a very narrow stream, I think. They're not a problem for the others that use them. The intake vacuum sealing area is that the bottom of the metal body, where you'll be putting the small o-shaped gaskets, and it's the same distance from the metal clamp the screws go through.

Is that a pallnet rail?

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Those look the FJ3 or FJ707 injectors. They have a different nozzle shape but they all shoot a very narrow stream, I think. They're not a problem for the others that use them. The intake vacuum sealing area is that the bottom of the metal body, where you'll be putting the small o-shaped gaskets, and it's the same distance from the metal clamp the screws go through.

Is that a pallnet rail?

Good eye on both. They are FJ3 injectors and Pallnet rail. Pretty simple rail. For the price, it was just easier for me to cut him a check, then buy a section of fuel injector rail and try to measure and drill out all the holes myself. It's a simple design and I hope it works out well.

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CG240Z: Looks like great work. On the fuel rail, where did you get the pressure gauge? What are you using for the Fuel Pressure Regulator? Do you have it installed yet? Pic Please....Thanks.

Fuel pressure gauge is an universal one from Summit. Fuel Pressure Regulator is from a 280zx, haven't looked for a place to install it. Also waiting on my 6th injector before I install the rail. Current progress is as you see, the rail sitting on my bench. I'll definitely take pictures when I make more progress.

Also I see you're from spring. I lived in Beaumont, TX from 05-09.

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Thanks for the information, I already have the FJ3's that I was just going to install in the stock manner, but after seeing all of this work I believe that I will get moving on this. I'll look forward to the pics. If you're ever in town again, maybe we can have a Shiner Bock!

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I have read this entire thread in one sitting and once again am thinking of restoring my 1978 280Z. I am the original owner. I have lived in San Diego since 1979. One thing that really bothers me is the smog testing every two years. The car passes but California toughens up the emissions every time I take it in. Reading your posts has me thinking about a lot of issues my old car may have: cracked vacuum lines, clogged injectors, faulty AFM, poor fuel pressure, etc. The car barely cranks in cold or rainy weather and when it does it acts likes there is no fuel getting to it and back fires (sounds like someone hitting the engine with a hammer?) if you touch the gas. Once it warms up, it's like its old self. I put 244,000 miles on the original engine and a Japanese rebuilt long block now has 65,000 miles on it. Anyhow, have you registered your Z with its modified cams, headers, etc in California yet? Did you run into any issues? Shoot me a PM if you want to get together sometime and talk Z's, motorcycles and have some craft brews.

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