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I have the classic symptoms of brake booster leakage:

Rock hard pedal

Hissing sound on braking

Engine idle increase when brakes applied when parked

The problem is I cannot seem to locate a rebuilt unit! I have tried NAPA, Autozone, O'Reilly and Rockauto. The only help I got was an offer to take my booster and rebuild it.

Any ideas out there?

Thanks!

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Like Steve said, Rock auto has them. 1972 NISSAN 240Z Brake/Wheel Hub Parts. They have A1-Cardone and Centric.

Or you could try Black dragon. They have then on core exchange too. Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7 iCatalog - Black Dragon Auto

Chas

Thanks for double checking Rockauto for me. I just placed an order. The Cardone rebuilds are done on the basis that you send your core in for rebuilding, so I imagine that would take more time.

Core exchanges are usually after the fact - you get the new one then send in your core for a refund of the core charge. You don't have to send in your core if you don't want to, sometimes the cost to ship it back is greater than the core charge.

Two different O'Reilly brick and mortar stores told me they don't stock and couldn't order a booster for my '73 this last weekend....... they could only send mine off to be rebuilt with a 6-8 week turnaround. However, their website had it listed as "in stock" and I ordered one up... it shipped this morning. :D

But that's a late style 8.5" booster for my '73. I heard they interchange fine, but only if you slot the holes in your firewall for the different bolt pattern.

Well, the Rockauto part arrived today and it is an 8 1/2 inch diameter unit instead of the 6 1/2 inch unit I wanted. My car is a 1972 model and I think the smaller unit is original. I e-mailed Rockauto to see if they could send the smaller unit since the bolt pattern is different. I guess I will start researching how difficult it would be to retrofit the larger booster to my car, but I am not too excited about that due to the reinforcing plate in the firewall is not too much larger than the existing mounting holes.

I believe the original holes were on 8cm centers (width) where the new ones are on 10cm. (height spacing is the same) It is easy to drill but on a 1970 you must also drill all holes ~ 0.5 to 1cm lower to clear the bell arm bracket and the clutch slave. A 72 may not have this problem. Try a mock-up cardboard disc first.

Oh yeah.... the bigger booster was a great improvement!!!

Blue, are you serious about the performance improvement or just poking some fun at small design changes that don't accomplish much except to make buying parts more difficult? It looks like four new holes that are each 1 cm outboard of the old holes would do the trick. It is hard to say, but I think the right hand holes would be nearly off the firewall reinforcing plate while the left hand holes would be close enough to a bend in the metal so as to make tightening up the nuts pretty tough.

Thanks!

Blue is serious - I can attest to his comment, "a great improvement" as we made this change to the larger booster on my Z (Jan. '71) a month ago.

Additionally, the switch is neither a long and/or difficult procedure when four hands go at it.

I think you will be pleased.

George

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