Patcon Posted September 18, 2013 Share #37 Posted September 18, 2013 I was under the impression POR-15 didn't like UV exposure....?Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virto Posted September 18, 2013 Share #38 Posted September 18, 2013 Marine/boat paint seems to be the way to go. Interlux Brightside is one of the more popular options. The downside to it is that it's not available in as many colors and I don't think it can be mixed to color match.It does coat well with little or no thinning and is self leveling. You can accomplish in 3 coats with brightside what rustoleum takes 6 or 7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted September 19, 2013 Share #39 Posted September 19, 2013 I was under the impression POR-15 didn't like UV exposure....?CharlesCharles,there are many different types of Por-15 products. The rust inhibitor stuff doesn't like UV and the color will fade, but they sell top coats in many varieties that won't fade. I just have never been a rustoleum fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted September 19, 2013 Share #40 Posted September 19, 2013 I didn't know the breadth of their product line that is good to know.C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff G 78 Posted September 19, 2013 Share #41 Posted September 19, 2013 The Rustoleum I used on my race car has been great. I did zero prep and rolled it on with foam rollers right over nasty old paint and some surface rust. After four years, it still looks great and has a nice shine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmortensen Posted September 19, 2013 Share #42 Posted September 19, 2013 (edited) I tried the roller method and it looked like it was going to be VERY time consuming so I went down to harbor freight, got the cheapest HVLP spray gun I could and sprayed my car. It came out pretty nicely. Mine is a race car so I didn't really care that much and it could have been done better, but it is better than the previous pro job that I spent thousands on for sure. I used Rustoleum so that if I have to make a quick repair later I can use spray cans. Edited September 19, 2013 by jmortensen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virto Posted September 19, 2013 Share #43 Posted September 19, 2013 Jeff, I know you didn't thin your paint, but how many coats did you end up laying? Did you wetsand afterward? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikes Z car Posted September 19, 2013 Share #44 Posted September 19, 2013 (edited) jmortensen, What is the air compressor you used rated for in terms of SCFM? I am asking because a coworker bought a harbor freight HVLP gun (as did I but he actually has used his) and he claimed it needed as much air SCFM as a standard spray gun. From what I read HVLP guns aren't supposed to require as much air flow as a standard gun. That finish on your car looks great! Edited September 19, 2013 by Mikes Z car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmortensen Posted September 19, 2013 Share #45 Posted September 19, 2013 I've got the 60 gal unit from HF: 60 Gallon Air Compressor - 2 Stage, 5 HP, 165 PSI and I think I had the regulator turned down to 40. I also thinned the paint with acetone. It's been a couple years, can't remember exactly but I can tell you I found all the details of what to do online. Thanks for the compliment. That quarter came out the cleanest and it looks the best, but the rest of it looks presentable too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff G 78 Posted September 19, 2013 Share #46 Posted September 19, 2013 (edited) Jeff, I know you didn't thin your paint, but how many coats did you end up laying? Did you wetsand afterward?No thinning and pretty much one coat. If not for the two colors, it would have been done in about 2 hours with 2 guys. One rolled white and one rolled red. We then let it dry overnight and taped it off to get the other color up to the tape. Total paint time was about 4 hours including the BRE stripes which took some time to lay out, tape and paint.Wetsand? No. When we have to remove decals, we sometimes peel paint. When that happens, we just re-roll the area and it blends right in.Like Jon's car, mine doesn't have to look great, but from 20 feet, it photographs really well. Edited September 19, 2013 by Jeff G 78 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virto Posted September 19, 2013 Share #47 Posted September 19, 2013 I may be tempted to just hit the car with a straight coat or two of paint after I sand the grit out of the existing paint. The current paint is good from 25 feet or so, looks ok in pictures, but it's textured like sand in some spots and it lacks even coverage. I think it was a maaco super-cheap job that the PO did over another maaco job that he'd done years before.I'll need to at least prime the areas that I knock rust off of - I may just go ahead and paint at the same time and then let it go for a year or two while I get the rest of the car sorted out and then go for a quality paint job later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartsscooterservice Posted September 22, 2013 Share #48 Posted September 22, 2013 I did a search, and couldn't find anything on this.. Anyone seen this before? The end results are very promising, and it seems like a viable option for a paint job on a budget. Rickwrench'>http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html]Rickwrench, Alfa GTV, Falcon Squire, CorvairLooks pretty good actually.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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