4 hours ago, jalexquijano said:

.55 inches ?? I really want to be sure of the starting point.

I posted this three days ago for you.

 

 

 

 

 

On 7/2/2018 at 3:48 PM, Mark Maras said:

 The float pivot points (ears) that hang down from the cap on 4 screw carbs were long on both carbs, Three screw carbs used long ears on the front carb and shorter ears on the rear carb. To my knowledge, the float setting is the same. Someone correct me if that's wrong. Remember that you can double check the float setting (fuel level) by verifying the fuel level is just below the  top of the nozzles with the mixture screws 2 1/2 turns down.

I already set one the front lid to .55 inches gap beween the rim of the lid and the bottom of the float. What next?

 Put it back together, start it up to be sure the float chamber has been filled to the new float setting and to see if the float level is now correct see post #54 and #56. Mixture screws 2 1/2 turns down the fuel level in the nozzle should be within 1/16" of the top of the nozzle.

What about the new holes my mechanic drilled to the front carb lid? Will this affect?

4 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I posted this three days ago for you.

 

 

 

 

 

How do i measure this 25mm front and 21 mm at the rear? I thought all i had to do is set the float gap to .55 inches.

10 hours ago, jalexquijano said:

What about the new holes my mechanic drilled to the front carb lid? Will this affect?

This is good in my opinion.  He basically made you the older and better 4 "screw type".  The ears are equal length now, both are short like the rear carb.  I put two rear carb lids on mine instead of drilling.  I have an extra set to rob parts off of.

Your mechanic did GOOD. 

Now get them both set at .55" and put them back together.  Get a couple of feet of clear hose and set it up like the picture, you don't need a clamp on the bottom nipple a Zip-Tie if anything.  Hold the clear hose up alongside the carburetor with some type of stiff wire, like the picture.  Once you get it set up pull the coil wire off then crank the motor over.  The liquid petrol in the clear tube should be even with the circled area on this photo.  

 

 

 

That's the 23mm way of setting the floats.  Don't worry about the rear being 21mm.  That's not a big deal.  See below for the reasoning...

Edited February 13, 20187 yr by siteunseen

Once you get the fluid in the clear tube where it needs to be do what Mark has said.  That will get your mixture knobs exact, 1/16" from top of the nozzle. 

Carbs will be good, case closed, move on to other problems if you still have any.

"Put it back together, start it up to be sure the float chamber has been filled to the new float setting and to see if the float level is now correct see post #54 and #56. Mixture screws 2 1/2 turns down the fuel level in the nozzle should be within 1/16" of the top of the nozzle."

 

11 hours ago, jalexquijano said:

What about the new holes my mechanic drilled to the front carb lid? Will this affect?

Here's a picture of the lids.  Your mechanic made them even by drilling those holes and raising the pin.  Other people have done it because all you can buy now are short valves.  See the difference in the original valves in the picture below.

 

 

Edited February 13, 20187 yr by siteunseen

I still dont understand why the mechanic dialed the front carb mixture knob to 4 turns clockwise and the rear one to 2.5 turns clockwise. I took some pictures yesterday of plugs 1 and 3 of the front carb. Something must be wrong on that front float.

Do you need to crank the engine In order to verify the level with the sight clear tube fasten to the drain plug?? 

 

Don't actually crank the car, just turn the motor over to get the fuel pressure up.  Pull the coil wire off and it won't crank up.

The way your mechanic did that is a result of the floats not being set at the same level.  He's compensating the front float bowl being low of fuel by dropping the nozzle down.  You disable one carb and the car will still run, barely.  You disable the other carb and get them to run the same.  Hard to explain with a keyboard.  Watch the DVD that came with your carbs, it shows what I'm talking about.

You are missing the hose clip that goes on the nozzle is this particular picture.  Those move up and down when you use the choke and the clip keeps the hose from coming off.  You need one there.

 

2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Don't actually crank the car, just turn the motor over to get the fuel pressure up.  Pull the coil wire off and it won't crank up.

The way your mechanic did that is a result of the floats not being set at the same level.  He's compensating the front float bowl being low of fuel by dropping the nozzle down.  You disable one carb and the car will still run, barely.  You disable the other carb and get them to run the same.  Hard to explain with a keyboard.  Watch the DVD that came with your carbs, it shows what I'm talking about.

So i should take both floats out and verify they are set to .55 gap with a 9/16 inch drill bit and install them and then set the 23mm with clear tube hose on front and rear carb?

Edited February 13, 20187 yr by jalexquijano