On 2/16/2018 at 9:58 PM, Lumens said:

Look at dimension 'H'

Then read paragraph 2 above again and again.

I cannot explain it any better without being there.

 

 

This is what i was asking. The .55 inch gap is taken with metal bracket underneath the float just touching the needle valve stem as per this picture. No pressure pushing the tip of the valve.

  On 2/16/2018 at 8:58 PM, siteunseen said:

Turn that assembly upside down and get in front of a mirror. Hold the float with your other hand. Blow into the fuel supply hose barb. When your breathe starts passing through look into the mirror and see where the float is. Bend the tab until the float' roof is parallel with the lid's roof. You will be close. Find something .55" thick and use it between the float and the lid while still using your breathe as fuel to get the float .055" lower than the lid.

I can't be any clearer, that's as simple as I can get without puppets.

You cannot set the float level upside down with the weight of the float against the pin. The newer style valves are very sensitive and will not resist the float's weight at all, period, done.

 

Edited February 17, 20187 yr by jalexquijano

Its really hard to set it this way and get the .55 inch gap with the metal bracket attached ton the float barely touching the valve pin. 

OK. This is a compromise method that I think works better anyway.

Hold assembly hanging as shown. Tip just enough to touch but not depress needle valve. Take measurement.

 

 

.60 inches

 @jalexquijano Don't obsess about getting them perfect. As you're discovering, measuring floats is not easy. Get them as close as you can without driving yourself crazy. Reassemble the carbs, start it up, shut it down, pull the suction chambers, pistons (not the float chamber tops) and see where the fuel level is in relation to the nozzle tops at 2 1/2 turns. Then you'll know IF the floats need to be readjusted or if you got it right them first time. Rest assured that you're experiencing the same frustration that everyone has had at one time or another setting floats. Keep up the good work.

  On 2/17/2018 at 4:00 PM, Mark Maras said:

 @jalexquijano Don't obsess about getting them perfect. As you're discovering, measuring floats is not easy. Get them as close as you can without driving yourself crazy. Reassemble the carbs, start it up, shut it down, pull the suction chambers, pistons (not the float chamber tops) and see where the fuel level is in relation to the nozzle tops at 2 1/2 turns. Then you'll know IF the floats need to be readjusted or if you got it right them first time. Rest assured that you're experiencing the same frustration that everyone has had at one time or another setting floats. Keep up the good work.

New picture at a differen angle. Should i set both carbs at 2.5 and post pictures of the jets level on both? Can this be useful? I still have not opened the floats lids on the carbs, i woulnt like to damage the gaskets until i get proper training. 

That's a good question I've been wondering myself.

Mr Maras, once I get the domes off to look down the nozzle tubes at 2.5 turns down, if they're are high or low do I get them "right" by adjusting the knobs on bottom?

Like if one's an 1/8th deep and not 1/16th should I lower the nozzle until I get to 1/16th?  Is that my target, 1/16th on each nozzle obtained by adjusting the knobs?

Inquiring minds want to know. 

Thank You!

what i want to accomplish is to get both carbs tuned at 2.5 turns each!

So you haven't even opened up your carbs on your car?

You should absolutely, 100% do what Mark has been saying this whole time.  That man has patience!, God bless him. 

" Reassemble the carbs, start it up, shut it down, pull the suction chambers, pistons (not the float chamber tops) and see where the fuel level is in relation to the nozzle tops at 2 1/2 turns. Then you'll know IF the floats need to be readjusted or if you got it right the first time. Rest assured that you're experiencing the same frustration that everyone has had at one time or another setting floats. Keep up the good work."

If you haven't bent the ztherapy floats that came with the carbs you should be very close already.

The mechanic raised the pin holes by drilling the front carbs ears.  That's why your front carb nozzle is down 4 turns and not the rear. 

 

Edited February 17, 20187 yr by siteunseen

Im practicing with a set of floats and lids before opening the car floats. My mechanic adjusted them but opening extra holes on the front carb ear lids. The weird thing is that he could managed to set the mixture knob at 2.5 turns clockwise on both carbs. He argued that the needle size is different on the front and could only set it to 4 turns clockwise.

  On 2/17/2018 at 7:34 PM, jalexquijano said:

Im practicing with a set of floats and lids before opening the car floats. My mechanic adjusted them but opening extra holes on the front carb ear lids. The weird thing is that he could managed to set the mixture knob at 2.5 turns clockwise on both carbs. He argued that the needle size is different on the front and could only set it to 4 turns clockwise.

Like I said before, you need a new mechanic! The needles in the carbs are the same front and rear! The 2.5 turns down is really sort of arbitrary. I would prefer both carbs were similar. IE both at 2.5 or 3.0 or 3.5 but it really won't be the end of the world if they're not 2.5 down. What matters is that the fuel level in each jet tube is the same. That is why Mark wants you to pull the domes off and visually inspect the fuel level in each jet!

  On 2/17/2018 at 7:22 PM, siteunseen said:

That man has patience!, God bless him. 

Yes, God bless him!