1972 Float Adjustment ...

[siteunseen]

2 hours ago, jalexquijano said:

Thanks for your assumption. You are fully correct. 4 years of having purchased the car and still does not run as it needs to. 

My 240 ran fairly good with low float bowls, you could have basic problems and think it's all fuel related.  California Datsun is known for selling bad motors and that's what you have.  He won't satisfy his American customers I can only imagine what he thinks when someone from another country buys from him?

[Mark Maras]

@siteunseen I've been reading some 2-3 year old history of Jalex"s gremlin. A couple of years ago he reported trouble with #4 cylinder along with the loading up the plugs at hot idle. Same problems then and now. The compression in all cylinders was between 180-185. That rules out a few possibilities. I'm pretty sure Jalex's hot cam is contributing to the idle problems but it should run better than it is. Anyone out there have any street experience with Jalex's cam?

 @jalexquijano  Have you reset the float levels yet?

[siteunseen]

Do you think the cam was set up right by the builder, I don't. 

It would be nice to see the valve train's wipe patterns.  Then to know what the cam's spec card calls for on valves settings. 

All those rabbit holes he's "logically" gone down. 

[Mark Maras]

 Yeah, I agree. There's a lot of assumptions that everything is well and good., especially knowing the builder's reputation. For now, I'd settle for getting the floats and the fine tuning done, if possible. I've never doubted that there could be something else wrong. 

 @jalexquijanoI did read a little about the Schneider 274 cam. Higher lift, short duration specs should make it a decent cam with increased power over all and a little lope at idle. A good choice for the street, if it and the valve train are dialed in properly. A few years ago, all cylinders had good compression (180ish). I doubt that it has many more miles on it since then. Interesting that there's always been a problem with #4 cylinder. Even after replacing the cap, rotor, wires and plugs, #4 fouls first and pulling the #4 wire has little effect on the idle. It makes no sense to me. Is #4 still a problem?

[siteunseen]

Did the timing ever get set after the cam change?

[jalexquijano]

6 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

 Yeah, I agree. There's a lot of assumptions that everything is well and good., especially knowing the builder's reputation. For now, I'd settle for getting the floats and the fine tuning done, if possible. I've never doubted that there could be something else wrong. 

 @jalexquijanoI did read a little about the Schneider 274 cam. Higher lift, short duration specs should make it a decent cam with increased power over all and a little lope at idle. A good choice for the street, if it and the valve train are dialed in properly. A few years ago, all cylinders had good compression (180ish). I doubt that it has many more miles on it since then. Interesting that there's always been a problem with #4 cylinder. Even after replacing the cap, rotor, wires and plugs, #4 fouls first and pulling the #4 wire has little effect on the idle. It makes no sense to me. Is #4 still a problem?

Number 4 spark plug always gets darker than the rest of the plugs. Very strange

[jalexquijano]

On 7/3/2018 at 1:23 PM, Mark Maras said:

@siteunseen I've been reading some 2-3 year old history of Jalex"s gremlin. A couple of years ago he reported trouble with #4 cylinder along with the loading up the plugs at hot idle. Same problems then and now. The compression in all cylinders was between 180-185. That rules out a few possibilities. I'm pretty sure Jalex's hot cam is contributing to the idle problems but it should run better than it is. Anyone out there have any street experience with Jalex's cam?

 @jalexquijano  Have you reset the float levels yet?

Almost there!!!

[Mark Maras]

 Looking better. Check the fuel level in the nozzles to be sure you've got it right. Once again, it's good to see you working on it. 

[jalexquijano]

Do you think that with the specs of my engine and with the schneider 274f cam i will be able to dial both carbs at 2.5 turns? I believe this engine and cam will require more gas.

[Mark Maras]

 I've kinda doubted that they would stay at 2 1/2 turns. As a guess, probably around three turns, IF and it's a BIG IF,  the floats are set properly FIRST. One of the reasons the fuel level has to be set to the proper height in any and all carbs. is, to function properly, the fuel has to be a set distance (optimum setting) from the airflow thru the venturi in the carb. That airflow draws fuel into the air stream from the nozzle. Get the fuel height too high and you'll be trying to compensate by leaning out the mixture screw. If the fuel level is too low, you'll be trying to compensate by richening the mixture screws. If you get the float levels dead on, you'll find little difference in the # of turns to fine tune each carb. If one carb likes three turns, the other will too. BUT you still double check the float setting at the nozzles, 2 1/2 turns down, choke off, before fine tuning the mixture screws. Keep at it, you're getting there.

[siteunseen]

This is hilarious, looks like one of POTUS's Tweets.  New head in the Nissan box with all new aftermarket cam and valve train. 

[jalexquijano]

9 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

 I've kinda doubted that they would stay at 2 1/2 turns. As a guess, probably around three turns, IF and it's a BIG IF,  the floats are set properly FIRST. One of the reasons the fuel level has to be set to the proper height in any and all carbs. is, to function properly, the fuel has to be a set distance (optimum setting) from the airflow thru the venturi in the carb. That airflow draws fuel into the air stream from the nozzle. Get the fuel height too high and you'll be trying to compensate by leaning out the mixture screw. If the fuel level is too low, you'll be trying to compensate by richening the mixture screws. If you get the float levels dead on, you'll find little difference in the # of turns to fine tune each carb. If one carb likes three turns, the other will too. BUT you still double check the float setting at the nozzles, 2 1/2 turns down, choke off, before fine tuning the mixture screws. Keep at it, you're getting there.

Can you take a picture of your carbs without the dome at 2.5 turns so i can at least figure out the 1/16 inch below the nozzle measure. Please be advised that i need to pull the choke out at 2.5 when the engine is cold or else the car stumbles and shuts down.

Edited March 9, 2018 by jalexquijano