On 3/7/2018 at 6:01 AM, siteunseen said:

Has this car ever ran right?  I can't remember hearing that from the owner and I've been on here since 2011.  

 

Won't we all be surprised if it was not a SU setting problem after all.

SU"s are so simple. With my 240 SU"s and all the British cars I had, if they were just set in the Goldilocks zone it plain ran good.

 

28 minutes ago, Lumens said:

Won't we all be surprised if it was not a SU setting problem after all.

SU"s are so simple. With my 240 SU"s and all the British cars I had, if they were just set in the Goldilocks zone it plain ran good.

 There's a couple of problems lurking in the background. The overheating at idle, the mysterious #4 cylinder that loads up the plug before the others, etc. I agree with your opinion of SU's. I'm not convinced that Jalex's were ever properly tuned after installation and with multiple mechanics working on them, I'm assuming that many settings have been altered. However, the engine had good compression a couple of years ago so I'm assuming it still does. Properly tuning the carbs is just eliminating another item off the "Running Crappy" list. It'll be interesting to see how many problems go away.

 

2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

This is hilarious, looks like one of POTUS's Tweets.  New head in the Nissan box with all new aftermarket cam and valve train. 

My first clue that everything was accomplished with a high level of precision and perfection was that there are TWO #10 entries on the "Rebuild Process" list. 

Dennis

1 hour ago, jalexquijano said:

Can you take a picture of your carbs without the dome at 2.5 turns so i can at least figure out the 1/16 inch below the nozzle measure. Please be advised that i need to pull the choke out at 2.5 when the engine is cold or else the car stumbles and shuts down.

 No picture. My son isn't here to help. Any of the ones you've supplied will work. After removing the domes and pistons, when you look down into the carb, you'll see a brass ring that's flush with the aluminum carb bridge. Inside the brass ring is the top of the nozzle. The nozzle is the round brass part with the little black hole in it. Pull the choke lever and you will notice that the nozzles get pulled down. Choke off (lever pushed forward), nozzles set at 2 1/2 turns down, you're going to look in that little black hole to determine the fuel level. If you use a flashlight you will be able to see the light reflected off the surface of the fuel in the hole or perhaps a small dipstick of some sort will also work. If you can't see the fuel level, it's too low. Bend the float tabs to raise the fuel level in the bowl until you can see the fuel in the nozzle hole. Don't be surprised if you go too high (fuel level above the nozzle hole top) and have to adjust the level down to 1/16" below the surface of the hole in the nozzle. The fuel should not be above the top of the nozzle. You want the fuel level to be just below the top of the little black hole. Hope that helps. If not, my son will be home later today. Let me know.

25 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

 No picture. My son isn't here to help. Any of the ones you've supplied will work. After removing the domes and pistons, when you look down into the carb, you'll see a brass ring that's flush with the aluminum carb bridge. Inside the brass ring is the top of the nozzle. The nozzle is the round brass part with the little black hole in it. Pull the choke lever and you will notice that the nozzles get pulled down. Choke off (lever pushed forward), nozzles set at 2 1/2 turns down, you're going to look in that little black hole to determine the fuel level. If you use a flashlight you will be able to see the light reflected off the surface of the fuel in the hole or perhaps a small dipstick of some sort will also work. If you can't see the fuel level, it's too low. Bend the float tabs to raise the fuel level in the bowl until you can see the fuel in the nozzle hole. Don't be surprised if you go too high (fuel level above the nozzle hole top) and have to adjust the level down to 1/16" below the surface of the hole in the nozzle. The fuel should not be above the top of the nozzle. You want the fuel level to be just below the top of the little black hole. Hope that helps. If not, my son will be home later today. Let me know.

Okay found a nice small flash light that can help me with your instructions. I was thinking that the 4.25 fuel pressure i had before could have damaged or altered in some way the needle valves and seats and since i had a new set i purchased from amazon, i also decided to replace them. Do you think i will need to check on the mesh filters which are part of the float lids?

1 hour ago, psdenno said:

My first clue that everything was accomplished with a high level of precision and perfection was that there are TWO #10 entries on the "Rebuild Process" list. 

Dennis

Maybe thats the reason the seller sold his car to me. He clearly knew that the engine was not rebuit accordingly.

Edited March 9, 20187 yr by jalexquijano

FWIW:

 

Can you take a picture of your carbs without the dome at 2.5 turns so i can at least figure out the 1/16 inch below the nozzle measure. Please be advised that i need to pull the choke out at 2.5 when the engine is cold or else the car stumbles and shuts down.

I think that is normal.


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

 No picture. My son isn't here to help. Any of the ones you've supplied will work. After removing the domes and pistons, when you look down into the carb, you'll see a brass ring that's flush with the aluminum carb bridge. Inside the brass ring is the top of the nozzle. The nozzle is the round brass part with the little black hole in it. Pull the choke lever and you will notice that the nozzles get pulled down. Choke off (lever pushed forward), nozzles set at 2 1/2 turns down, you're going to look in that little black hole to determine the fuel level. If you use a flashlight you will be able to see the light reflected off the surface of the fuel in the hole or perhaps a small dipstick of some sort will also work. If you can't see the fuel level, it's too low. Bend the float tabs to raise the fuel level in the bowl until you can see the fuel in the nozzle hole. Don't be surprised if you go too high (fuel level above the nozzle hole top) and have to adjust the level down to 1/16" below the surface of the hole in the nozzle. The fuel should not be above the top of the nozzle. You want the fuel level to be just below the top of the little black hole. Hope that helps. If not, my son will be home later today. Let me know.

Be sure that the choke cables are disconnected. It can distort the locate of the nozzle.


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29 minutes ago, 7tooZ said:

Be sure that the choke cables are disconnected. It can distort the locate of the nozzle.


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 You're absolutely right. Tight choke cables can pull the nozzles down. When adjusting my choke cables, I loosen the cable clamp screws, pull the choke lever back about 1/4" , manually push the nozzles up and tighten the cable screws. I do lose a bit a choke but this way I'm sure the nozzles always return to the top.

@jalexquijano I just thought of an easier method to determine the fuel height in the nozzles. If you can't see the fuel at 2 1/2 turns down, turn the mixture screws and lower the nozzles until fuel is visible at the top of the hole. That will tell you how much higher the fuel needs to be. Return the nozzles to 2 1/2 turns and readjust the float tabs.

 

7 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

@jalexquijano I just thought of an easier method to determine the fuel height in the nozzles. If you can't see the fuel at 2 1/2 turns down, turn the mixture screws and lower the nozzles until fuel is visible at the top of the hole. That will tell you how much higher the fuel needs to be. Return the nozzles to 2 1/2 turns and readjust the float tabs.

 

You are the man! Rear and front floats. How much more should i keep bending and not getting fuel pouring from the air vents of the float lids.