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1972 Float Adjustment ...


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2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Ed Zachary! Nothing supplies-es me anymore in this this thread. Would your better half consider some online help for me? I've been doing some state funded vocational testing the past week or so and I've answered and arraigned the red and white blocks so many times I'm about to puke. 

Don't give up on chanting Ed Zachary.  Works for me on this thread.  As for help from my wife, I'm sure she'd be willing to sell you some answers to the IQ and personality test questions.  You're on your own with block design, however.  In the meanwhile, if you don't think "Ed Zachary" is helping, try repeating "2016 Erection". :victorious:

Dennis

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On 30/3/2018 at 4:11 PM, siteunseen said:

How about loosening the screws on the choke cables so they are free and drive it?  Would that be a good idea or digging a deeper hole? I don't think his chokes are right. Mine will crank with no choke, his should too, takes a few more seconds though.

 

I can crank it with no choke but have to lay my foot on the accelerator for a few seconds.

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Is #6 135 or 185? Hard to tell from here.

I'm sure it's 185, well pretty sure and those are great readings. I feel like you have the main problem resolved, getting the floats right. You owe Mark a big ole THANK YOU.

Just know that you need to baby it until it reaches temp. No need for full choke until then though. It'll spit and sputter with full choke while driving. My suggestion is run full choke before getting on the road, you'll be able to look at the motor while it gets warm. Check for leaks and just a good overall inspection before running it up to 110mph. How are your brakes by the way? Can't remember you talking about them in the past.

You don't want any supplies-es at 110! You know Ed Zachery what I mean. We want you to be around for the 2020 Erection. LOL

@psdenno

Edited by siteunseen
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22 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Is #6 135 or 185? Hard to tell from here.

I'm sure it's 185, well pretty sure and those are great readings. I feel like you have the main problem resolved, getting the floats right. You owe Mark a big ole THANK YOU.

Just know that you need to baby it until it reaches temp. No need for full choke until then though. It'll spit and sputter with full choke while driving. My suggestion is run full choke before getting on the road, you'll be able to look at the motor while it gets warm. Check for leaks and just a good overall inspection before running it up to 110mph. How are your brakes by the way? Can't remember you talking about them in the past.

You don't want any supplies-es at 110! You know Ed Zachery what I mean. We want you to be around for the 2020 Erection. LOL

@psdenno

How much time with full choke until driving? Number 6 is 175 

Edited by jalexquijano
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1 hour ago, jalexquijano said:

How much time with full choke until driving? Number 6 is 175 

 It depends on the outside and engine temp. I give it full choke to start it when the engine is cold. When the engine starts to run a bit rough and it starts blubbering or stuttering, I EASE the choke off UNTIL the engine sounds better. I adjust the choke to the off position as the engine warms up. If I push the choke off too soon, the engine will almost stall.

 You can start driving the car anytime after a minute or so to be sure the oil is circulating. Just keep the revs reasonably low. VOE speaking when I say, you can and will spin a rod bearing if you high rev one of these engines when it's cold. Be patient and let the engine warm before you start having fun.

 A possible help may be to adjust the choke as follows. Full choke at start. 3/4 choke when the temp gauge starts to move. 1/2 choke when the temp gauge is 1/2 way to normal operating temp. 1/4 choke when the temp gauge is 3/4 to operating temp. If the engine starts to run rough, give it a bit less choke. If the engine balks and almost stalls, give it a little more choke. Don't be afraid to experiment with choke settings while you're driving it. You won't wear out the nozzles, I promise.

 I can't help but wonder if a valve adjustment would even out those compression ratios. Might be something to think about when we're done with the carbs.

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