I use atf but my can try 3 in one motor oil to see if it gets better at low speed.

35 minutes ago, jalexquijano said:

I use atf but my can try 3 in one motor oil to see if it gets better at low speed.

Don't mess with it, if there's no problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ill do as Paul Mcartney wrote in one of abbey road's songs "step on the gas and wipe that tear away......."

Nice looking car!  All I've seen is the spark plugs and the carbs. 

 

13 hours ago, jalexquijano said:

I use atf but my can try 3 in one motor oil to see if it gets better at low speed.

30 wt for hotter climates, according to 240260280 or Blue or Phillip.

 

Edited May 28, 20186 yr by siteunseen

@jalexquijano Try some different weight oils in the carbs. It would be an easy, fun experiment. (until one drops a piston or dome, VOE, be careful) I ran Marvel Mystery Oil in mine for a few years and then switched to ATF. Both worked fine with no noticeable difference in performance. Try a light weight oil as well as a heavy weight and tell us what you find.

16 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I agree, enjoy the car now that YOU have set the float levels (with Marks help-THANK YOU MARK).

 

 

 

 Jalex deserves the credit. He tried to solve this problem for quite a while (possibly from day one) and never threw in the towel. My small part in this was to keep Jalex FOCUSED on what WE theorized was a float level problem. I don't think any of us are totally convinced that Jalex's floats are absolutely correct but they must be close. 

 Jalex asked a question earlier and knows these carbs well enough now ☺️ that he and I are curious what effect raising the floats 1 mm and raising the nozzles 1 turn (1 mm, 2 1/2 turns down) would have. I don't know for sure. I believe the nozzles are around 3 1/2 turns down at this time. Opinions and theories are welcome from all.

3.75 front and 3.65 rear carb. I guess that in order to set it both carbs to 2.5 turns i will need to close the gap between the float and the float lid more. Just if one is obessed with the 2.5 turns clockwise i guess. Car is running fine. Now i neee to deal with plug number 4 which has always been the problem and trying the car at long idle time during traffic

I'm with Mark, it may be as simple as a plug wire's bad connection. I use dielectric grease on all my connections, FYI.

 If the compression is good in #4 (as I recall, it is) and it's getting a decent quantity of fuel, (it is) the gremlin in #4 has to lie in the dist. cap, rotor, plug wire or plug. Multiple plugs have fouled so it has to be in the cap, rotor or plug wire. @jalexquijano What brand cap and rotor are you running? We changed my son's RX7 cheap replacement cap and rotor (the old ones still looked? good) to Bosch parts. Instant improvement in performance and it helped the original 12A thru another DEQ inspection in Oregon. The one thing I did notice when installing the rotor was the precision fit as compared to the old one. Not one degree of sloppy fit. Something to consider.

 

Ngk blue wires are new. Rotor and cap are also new. I even have a pertronix ignitor installed there. Guessing will not solve the equation.

 @jalexquijano Rotor and cap being new doesn't tell me what brand they are. Many new parts are a P.O.S. I do agree guessing won't solve the problem. Swap the #4 plug wire with another one or measure the resistance in all of the wires using a volt-ohm meter so we can eliminate that possibility.

37 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

 @jalexquijano Rotor and cap being new doesn't tell me what brand they are. Many new parts are a P.O.S. I do agree guessing won't solve the problem. Swap the #4 plug wire with another one or measure the resistance in all of the wires using a volt-ohm meter so we can eliminate that possibility.

Ok. The only spark plug that turns sooty black is number 4. I would not like to invest money and labour on rectifying and changing all the valve stems and valves if it is not needed and it wont solve my problem.

Edited May 30, 20186 yr by jalexquijano

@jalexquijano Valve stems and valves? I don't recall anyone talking about them. All I'm asking is remove #4 spark plug wire and use #3 or #5 in it's place. Use #4 wire on #3 or #5, whichever one will reach. I would also swap #4 plug with #1 or #6 plug to remove the dirty plug from the test area. No money and only a few minutes to do it.

 Oh yeah, and I'd still like to know what brand your dist. cap and rotor are. NGK wires are a good choice.

Edited May 30, 20186 yr by Mark Maras