1972 Float Adjustment ...

[Mark Maras]

Could be #6 was tested first. I retest the first cylinder when I'm done and usually find the C. R. has gone up a bit.

[jalexquijano]

On 1/4/2018 at 4:36 PM, Mark Maras said:

Excellent. The coughing you're describing is a too rich mixture caused by too much choke. You've figured out that the choke can and should be adjusted to suit the conditions, ambient and engine temperatures. While I'm thinking about it, should you ever want to see if the fuel mixture is too lean (when the engine is warmed up) gradually pull the choke while you're SLOWLY accelerating. If you feel the power increase the mixture needs to be a bit richer. Drive it for a few days or until a new question arises. Oh yeah, have you driven by your old mechanic's shop yet?

Plugs 2, 4 and 5 at 3.7 turns clockwise

[siteunseen]

that's the same plugs since float adjusting? #4 still looks bad. A proper valve adjustment may clear that up but after adjustment you'll need a new set. I know you get tired of buying plugs but you've spent sooooo much money on fuel pumps. Now your floats are right time to buy one more set. Sucks but that's part of the game.

[Mark Maras]

@jalexquijano Ditto what Cliff said. Swap #4 plug with any other plug and see if #4 cylinder fouls with a different plug. BTW, I'd like to see a little Never-Seize thread lube on those plug threads.

[jalexquijano]

24 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

that's the same plugs since float adjusting? #4 still looks bad. A proper valve adjustment may clear that up but after adjustment you'll need a new set. I know you get tired of buying plugs but you've spent sooooo much money on fuel pumps. Now your floats are right time to buy one more set. Sucks but that's part of the game.

Samr plug since float adjustment.

[jalexquijano]

well i cranked the engine tonight, warmed the engine with the choke lever pulled all the way to the back  for 1 minute and advanced the timing from 12 btdc to 14 btdc. Car will still sputter and cough during the first 12 to 15 minutes. Once fully warmed up sputtering and carb intake backfire ceased. Is this still normal?  How can i make the car warm up faster and avoid this sputtering during the first 15 mins?

[Mark Maras]

 @jalexquijano When it's cold, sputtering and the choke is all the way on, what happens when you ease the choke off a little bit. I'd expect that the sputtering would go away or get better and the engine would run a little better if the mixture is rich-normal. If the engine wants to die, especially under a load, the mixture is too lean and we need to take a look at your choke cable adjustments. The cables may not be pulling the nozzles all the way down, which is full choke. At some point in time I still want you to pull the domes and pistons so we can verify the fuel height in the nozzles.

[jalexquijano]

You still recommend setting the carbs at 2.5 turns and verifying the 1/16th under the nozzle? If its not there then i should take both floats out and bend the tangs a little bit more. This is how they look the last time i took them out several weeks ago after bending the tang more to reduce the gap.

[Mark Maras]

No need to readjust yet. I'd just like to know where the fuel level is to use as a reference point and to be sure the fuel level isn't too high and puddling on top of the nozzles. Also, I'd still like to know if easing the choke off a little when the engine is sputtering and cold makes the engine run better or worse?

[jalexquijano]

39 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

No need to readjust yet. I'd just like to know where the fuel level is to use as a reference point and to be sure the fuel level isn't too high and puddling on top of the nozzles. Also, I'd still like to know if easing the choke off a little when the engine is sputtering and cold makes the engine run better or worse?

Let me see if i get this clear. Right now both of the fuel mixture knobs are at 3.70 turns clockwise. You want me to remove the domes and pistons of the SU Carbs and verify if the fuel level is puddling on top of the nozzle? If i ease the choke, meaning closing the choke, the engine runs worse.  After 15 minutes of driving slowly i can then speed up and no more sputtering.

[Mark Maras]

 I want to verify that the fuel in NOT puddling on top of the nozzles at 3.7 turns down. You'll also be able to verify that the float level in both carbs is the same. I still can't figure out if the sputtering when it's cold is caused by a lean or a rich mixture. At first I thought it was getting too much choke but if the the engine runs worse when you ease off the choke a little bit, the mixture is too lean.

[jalexquijano]

So if there is no puddling at 3.70 turns clockwise then i will need to take both floats out and bend the tang more. i thought that with the clear tube pictures above the fuel level was ok.

Edited April 6, 2018 by jalexquijano