I was thinking your fuel levels were all good a week ago? 

The next issue is getting the carbs running the same individually. You need to find a timing light that shows rpm then start adjusting them separately or as Phillip says "equally shitty".

 @jalexquijano If it were me, I'd fire that thing up and see how it runs and drives cold and warm before altering anything else. I've learned that one step at a time and see what effect that one step had is the best way to learn diagnostics. Might take a little longer but I've experienced the, "I'm glad I was able to fix it. Now I just wish I knew what fixed it" too many times.

Okay i will replace the airbox filter and fire it up. Choke fully on until it reaches half of the temp gauge.  I thought the aim was to get 1/16th ince which equals to 1.58 mm under the hole of the nozzle.

Edited April 7, 20187 yr by jalexquijano

 We'll get back to the fuel level, I just want to know how it runs now to use as a baseline for further adjustments.

The wooden stick does come out wet when the choke is pulled at 2.5 turns clockwise.

  On 4/7/2018 at 7:48 PM, siteunseen said:

I hope I'm not speaking out of turn, don't know what CO's thoughts were and I value those very highly, but in my opinion not too critical.

After  couple more beers I think I got that bassackwards!???

I got mine set with  clear glass "float chamber" on my bar top so they are dead on. I can't speak on getting close and how that works out with the nozzles. I was thinking you fine tune with the knobs and get the floats as close as possible, that whole clear tubing method is not super precise but very close so my remark on not "too critical".

Carry on men, keep marching, onward through the fog, and a broken clock is right twice  day.

  On 4/7/2018 at 9:08 PM, Mark Maras said:

 We'll get back to the fuel level, I just want to know how it runs now to use as a baseline for further adjustments.

It ran horrible. 15 minutes with the choke lever pulled at half and still you could listen to rough acceleration. I was thinking that i should test it again with a new set of ngk bp6es plugs tomorrow and see how it behaves before opening the float bowls again.

If you took off the choke engine starts to sputter and cough.

@jalexquijano 240,260,280 and I are meeting up tomorrow. I want to discuss this with him and see if the two of us can come with a consensus of opinion.

I really dont want to keep on messing with the floats. if they are okay.

Also tell him that this same airtex 8012sx elextric pump used to push 4.2 psi in the past and that i did not had any stumbling or coughing even at cold starts.

Edited April 9, 20187 yr by jalexquijano

@jalexquijano Keep an eye on the post dates. Some of the ones you're responding to are inactive now. If you want to flag someone you need the @ symbol before the person's name. Click on the person you want to flag from the pop up list and it's done.

 I think you're right. It's time for a new set of plugs. This may sound a bit random but humor me. Have you ever tried to start the engine without the choke when the engine is cold? When you put the new plugs in, try starting it with no choke. If it doesn't start in the normal length of time, give it 1/4 choke and try again. No Start? Go to 1/2 choke, etc. I want you to cold start the engine with the least amount of fuel (choke) as possible. When it does start, baby the throttle but keep it running at a busy idle. You may need to blip the throttle now and then when the idle starts to drop. Warm it up enough to drive it. Hit the road and let us know how it acted. The more detail the better, starting with how much choke was needed to start it.