Hello crowd

I know its been a while but I have been trying to get #6333 back on the road again after a main harness fire back in 2005. I was able to scavenge an exact copy of a good unmolested harness from an early 1972. #6333 was built in the spring of 1970 but the harness is the exact same. After many weeks of of cleaning the harness up an soldering some ragged spots and recovering it I have it installed and all connections completed. I put a battery in it this morning but nothing inside works. No lights, the starter does not turn over, no brake lights, NO NOTHING. Can someone shed some light on something I may have missed. At the moment I am at work and it is really bugging me. I hoped at least the dashboard gauge lights would work. I'm really stoked to almost be able to drive it again after almost 8 years of garage life. Any assistance would be appreciated. BTW the fuse box gets power but the power does not seem to be going past the fuse box. Currently I have the factory fuse box installed but an upgrade to an MSA box is on the near horizon. If anyone has a hint you can also e-mail me at edtwomuchz@gmail.com

THANX

Is every thing plugged into the harness? Even the rear harness sections that go down the passenger frame rail?

Charles

YES but I will give another check on Saturday

I found that my 73 won't crack if all of that is not hooked up. Also make sure all the small connections at the passenger kick panel are correct. Will it crank over with a remote starter or screwdriver short on the starter? Is the harness well grounded to the firewall near the battery?

C

Check your grounds.

Check your grounds.

What he said^

Thanks guys

All grounds were checked and checked again. Strange though I tested with a test light and only 2 fuses are getting power. The fusible link running from the started to the main harness is the only thing inside the.car getting power. Even the red and white wire that screws into The back of the fuse box gets NO POWER. Where is Dave when you need him. If anyone sees or talks to him ask him to read my thread and contact me. 772-205-4349. That is Dave from Marysville Washington. AKA ZsOndaBrain. Once again thanks

Examine the back side of the fuse panel for corrosion. First things first, power comes in through the white and white-red wires. When checking voltage, use a chassis ground. If you have no voltage anywhere, check the ground cable from the battery. If you are finding voltage on some fuse terminal and not others, turn on the ignition switch and retry. If you have voltage on some and not others, suspect corrosion in the fuse panel.

Do some continuity checks on the the power wires. Amp meter hooked up?

Thanks guys

Even the red and white wire that screws into The back of the fuse box gets NO POWER.

As madkaw asked, is your ammeter hooked up and if so, is it functional? The R/W wire will only get power if the ammeter is hooked up/functional. The R/W does not get power from the fuse box.

Ammeter is hooked up but I might have to pull the dashboard out again to check it as it is almost impossible to do a thourough check when trying to work under the dash iin these cars. The dashboard was out of the car when the dashboard section of the harness was installed. I will have to remove it again to do an inspection. No rust on the fuse box but it is the factoryt unit and 41 years old. The main red and white wire that screws into the back of it is not getting power either. But thanks to everyone who offered input. I will let you all know how it goes. If anyone can come up with anything else please feel free to email me at edtwomuchz@gmail.com

Also one other question is it possible to test the ammeter for functionality? I.E. Does it actually work without the car running?