Update on my Z

[Inf]

Sorry I haven't posted in a while, i've been quite busy studying since I am in college.

I was pretty miffed at first, because the guy selling it had basically built it up to be a car in superb condition, inside/out and mechanically. This did not prove to be the case. I considered sending it back under the terms of our secure pay agreement, but after driving it for a bit and throughly enjoying myself, I couldn't stand the thought of sending it back. It has a little rust here and there (none that will be too bad to get rid of when I have time to treat it this summer), and the engine will need some work as it is currently burning some oil, but I decided I would just fix the existing problems as it seems like it is well worth the time and effort.

I paid $7500 for the actual car, and then about $700 for the shipping. Might not be what most consider a good deal, but at least I learned a few important lessons from the whole thing.

Now I need to get my hands on a '72 factory service manual and I can really get to work on the weekends.

Initially, I have a few problems that maybe you guys could give me some advice on before I have time to get my hands dirty this weekend:

1) The drivers side lapbelt will no longer retract. The 3rd time I drove it, I pulled the seatbelt out too far i'm guessing, and it will no longer retract. I have yet to get it inspected or registered, and I think this would prevent me from passing the safety requirements. Any ideas?

2) Reverse switch on the transmission needs to be installed. For whatever reason, the previous owner did not bother to install it during his "restoration," so I ordered a used one from Z Barn, and it just came today. The gentleman at Z Barn told me it was relatively easy to install given that I can access the underside of the car easily. Should I be able to do this without referring to the FSM? The switch has 2 unlabeled leads coming off, and i'm wondering what the correct wiring should be since I do not have an FSM and haven't had a good look at the underside since the day after it got here. I have yet to take the car to be inspected because I am pretty sure this missing part alone would block passage.

3) Some blue smoke comes out the exhaust while accelerating. Does this likely mean I will need to replace the piston rings or some similar engine repair? The previous owner did not seem to care too much for changing the oil in this car unfortunately.

4) Shifter is extremely sloppy, and I sometimes cannot find gears. I have read about a set of replacement bushings for my tranny that will make it feel tighter and more precise again. Are these commonly available at nissan dealerships?

If you guys have any other recommendations for things I should check (i.e. stuff that might be worn out or damaged that would need replacing from age), I would be glad to hear them.

[Bambikiller240]

Inf:

Hopefully the Reverse switch IS installed, otherwise there is a open hole in the side of your transmission that will allow gear oil to fly out of the box, and allow dirt and grime to enter it. Look under the car, passenger-side of the transmissionn near the fill plug about an inch or two forward is the reverse switch (or the hole it goes into). All you need to install it is a wrench of the apropriate size. As far as the connections, I don't believe it matters which of the two wires on the switch connect to the two wires from the main wiring harness.

Factory service manuals are available from Andy Russell in Chandler, AZ for about $75.00 You can contact him at Z@datsundude.com Sometimes you can find a used one on eBay for less, but they are usually kinda mangled up.

Two 14mm bolts hold the seatbelt retractor in the pocket. remove them and you can pull out the mechanism and perhaps see what is wrong.

Transmission shifter bushings (a 3-piece set) are available from dealers and from Motorsport Auto in Los Angeles. AIR they are about $10 for a set. They'll make a WORLD of difference in how the shifter feels to you.

Good Luck!

[kmack]

3) Blue smoke under acceleration usually means your rings are shot and you're getting oil past them. This will mean the engine will need to be pulled and the rings replaced. And while you're there refresh all the gaskets too. Complete gasket sets will set you back about $70. Ring sets are $40 from Victoria British.

I agree with Carl on the reverse switch. There should be one in the tranny already unless the PO took it out completely and then hopefully he at least put a plug in the hole. I have yet to see an inspection station check for operating reverse lights in the last 14 years here in Texas, so that should not keep you from getting your inspection.

The seat belt probably has some trash in it making the retract mechanism not function. Pull it out and try to clean all the dirt and junk out of it and it should work fine. I once had the paper covering from a soda straw jam one up on me. Of all things...

As for the shifter bushings, check with Courtesy Nissan right there in your own backyard. They are a big time supporter of Z clubs and you can most likely get the bushing set from them just as cheap as from MSA plus you won't have to pay shipping.

BTW, very nice looking car!

[EScanlon]

I like what the picture shows. What about the interior?

Although $7500 may be excessive in SOME areas, in others it's average. You must consider that for what we have seen of the underside and now the exterior, it doesn't look bad at all.

A bit of blue smoke, personally, BEFORE I would invest a dime in tearing down, rebuilding, etc etc etc ad nauseaum, I would do the very VERY BASIC items.

That is:

Change the oil and filter, preferably after having run some sort of "flush" solution through it. I forget the name for it, right off the bat, but it may just be that you have sticky varnish everywhere that needs to be cleaned. I just recently took my Acura in for a complete service, and one of the things they did was a hot reverse oil flush or something like that. A noisy lifter that I had, miraculously got quiet.

Use a good quality engine oil. I don't know what everyone else will advise, but I've used Duralube additive and been impressed with the results so far.

Check that indeed your reverse light switch is inoperative and not simply disconnected. Also check the fuse, not just visually, but take it out and do a continuity test on it.. Believe me, I've seen it happen time and time again, the fuse may look good, but fail the continuity test. Have you checked the bulbs? Check the other fuses and bulbs while you're there. Lastly, Bambikiller already said it, switches don't care which way the current is going in a 12V system.

I agree with everyone else on the seat belt. Simple fix. Worst case, it's got a dose of the sticky grease, or there was a kink in it and it got retracted into the case and you just succeeded in pulling it out to where it got stuck.

I'm sure there will be some that will say, those are real obvious things you're advising, but you'd be surprised how often it is the very minor and obvious stuff that trips people up.

By the way, Andy Russell is an outstanding and honest guy, give him a holler for the manual, it will save you HOURS! The only other manual I would recommend OVER the Haynes and Chilton's is the Clymer's Manual. The early one for 70 to 74 vehicles with the BLUE cover.

Oh, and feel free to post any and all quetions. I think that we all enjoy answering them, although 2ManyZ's and KMack and BambiKiller want everyone to tear down their engine so that they can overhaul it because they're the kind of people who enjoy that kind of thing.

So don't be surprised if you post something like:

My Rear License Plate Light went out, but only ONE bulb seems to light up after changing both. What's up?

Those guys will answer:

First, you need to remove the engine and do an overhaul..........:stupid:

JUST KIDDING..........:

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by EScanlon

.....don't be surprised if you post something like:

My Rear License Plate Light went out, but only ONE bulb seems to light up after changing both. What's up?

Those guys will answer:

First, you need to remove the engine and do an overhaul..........:stupid:

JUST KIDDING..........:

It might also be the Transmission. Better rebuild that too while you're at it!!

Carl

[EScanlon]

EXCELLENT CARL!

[Smokey]

Originally posted by BambiKiller240

It might also be the Transmission. Better rebuild that too while you're at it!!

Carl

And while you are in there, go ahead and pull the motor and tear it down. No sense in having a fresh tranny with an aged motor.

[2ManyZs]

Don't know how my name got "dragged" into this....:devious:

But maybe he should check those control arm bushings while he's at it, every Z owner needs to learn how to take those spindle pins out...

[Zvoiture]

>>>>a hot reverse oil flush<<<<

Mmmmmmm...You could probably get thrown out of Joe Millionaire for doing that.

steve

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by Zvoiture

>>>>a hot reverse oil flush<<<<

Mmmmmmm...You could probably get thrown out of Joe Millionaire for doing that.

steve

or get invited to a Bathhouse in SF!

[halz]

Inf,

Apart from the blue smoke issue, what you describe could be pretty well termed minor issues. You could spend another $1000 on a supposedly better car and still have the same problems bob up. We are talking about a 30 year old car here after all - its bound to have some niggles.

As for the blue smoke - if it turns out to be rings then think of it as a chance to put the engine into the same great condition as the rest of the car...:cheeky:

[Alansz]

With respect to the reversing light issue, do the wires go up the channel towards the back of the car, or somewhere else? my reversing light was disconnected, unfortunately it is covered in tar so it looks like i will need a new one. Why do the po do this? any reason?