starting problem

[frankensteinZ]

Everytime I try to start my car it turns over and will start to run, but as soon as I let go of the key it shuts off. I can get it to stay on but I have to hold it between start and on. I thought it was the ignition but I am still getting the same problem can turn it over and keep it running but not with out hold the key just at the right angle. Let me know what you guys think it could be.

Thanks

Frankenstein Z

[Bambikiller240]

You didn't mention any alterations to the car, but I'm wondering......Have you recently changed the car to an internally regulated altenator? If so, did you install the diode needed for this modifuication to work correctly.

carl

[2ManyZs]

If it will run if you hold the key in a certain position in the switch, I'd have to say it's in the switch itself. It is probably not making contact in the run position.

If you can get your hands on a used switch just to try, it's worth a shot before you spend the money on a new switch if for some reason it isn't the switch. Especially since a new switch is $105....

[Dan]

I had this very problem and it was the connection to the ignition resistor. Well i really don't know what it's called but there is a small box like component that sits right under the coil, if its not connected right you will experience the problem you are having. Pulled my hair damn near out until i fiddled with the connections there.

[Dan]

Ignition ballast thats it, anyway i was just about to lay down the dough for a new switch when i discovered the problem, hope i helped before it was too late.

[frankensteinZ]

Yes i did put on a new ignition on sorry i didnt mention it. I think resistor is the problem I will give it a look.

Thanks Frankenstein Z

[EScanlon]

There is a Black / White wire going to the POSITIVE side of the Coil from the Tachometer, BUT there is also a Green/White wire that comes from the Tach that hooks up to the Resistor. On the other side of the resistor there is ANOTHER Black/White Wire.

If you inadvertently swap these two Black White wires around, you not only will not RUN after starting, your Tach also will not work.

Been there, done that.

2¢

[frankensteinZ]

That little white box under the coil is broken on the side closest to the back of the car.

Would that cause my problem?

Frankenstein Z

[EScanlon]

That's the resistor everyone refers to.

Did you change your distributor / points to Electronic? If so, ditch the resistor, it's actually working against you.

Disconnect the wires going to both sides of the resistor and do a continuity check through the resistor. Also check to ground. While you should check OK through the resistor, you shouldn't get a tone to ground.

HTH

[frankensteinZ]

I found it! I took the wires off like EScanlon said in case I got them mixed up. When I took the wire off the resistor it came off with out the spade on the end, that stayed on the resistor Ha. Well so i had my girlfriend hold it on and it kept running. Thanks alot for the help. Hey Escanlon I was curious about updating the car. What were you talking about changing the distributor to electronic? Let me know.

Thanks Again Frankenstein Z

[EScanlon]

You can change the Distributor to a later NON point distributor. That way you get the advantage of losing the points AND the resistor.

There's a site on geocities that has tons of information, I'll have to find the post for you.

You can even use your old tach with it if you wire it in properly. That's what I have on my car and it purrs.

2¢

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by EScanlon

You can change the Distributor to a later NON point distributor. That way you get the advantage of losing the points AND the resistor.

There's a site on geocities that has tons of information, I'll have to find the post for you.

You can even use your old tach with it if you wire it in properly. That's what I have on my car and it purrs.

2¢

Or you can upgrade your existing distributor to be "pointless" with a PERTRONIX Ignitor kit. http://www.pertronix.com/ignition/ignitor/index.htm