Put an ad in Parts Wanted. There are a few guys on the forum that part out cars. The rods are expensive new, but don't break often so demand is low. They should sell for cheap.

I will if I can't find it. I know a fellow with some parts Z's, and he's mentioned having suspension components. Its been a while, but I'm sure his offer still stands. That's my best bet, but if not, I'll get one posted, thanks!

When getting everything back together, don't overlook the second nut on the end of the shaft. It is not shown on the diagram in your original post but you want a double nut to lock the primary nut in place so it does not back off.

Ok, thanks for the tip. I'll also be sure to check the other side and make sure its not about to fail. If I can get a good enough price, I may just do them both while I've got it on the lift.

don't overlook the second nut on the end of the shaft. It is not shown on the diagram in your original post but you want a double nut to lock the primary nut in place so it does not back off.

I believe the stock arrangement is to use a single self retaining vibration-resistant nut on the bushing end of the rod. One of those all metal styles that have a few purposely distorted threads at one end. There's nothing wrong with using two normal (not vibration-resistant) nuts there instead, but in theory, if you're using the correct stock nut all by itself, you should not have to.

Just remember that the stock style nuts never hold as well the second (or third, or fourth) time you try to re-use, so if there's any question as to their ability to hold themselves, you should just buy new.

Poly bushings in the TC rod can be a bad thing. If you run the poly in the front and a rubber bush in the rear, that helps, or you can drill a bunch of holes in the bushing to make it more flexible.

More here:

scary tension rod failure - Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis - HybridZ

I believe the stock arrangement is to use a single self retaining vibration-resistant nut on the bushing end of the rod. One of those all metal styles that have a few purposely distorted threads at one end. There's nothing wrong with using two normal (not vibration-resistant) nuts there instead, but in theory, if you're using the correct stock nut all by itself, you should not have to.

Just remember that the stock style nuts never hold as well the second (or third, or fourth) time you try to re-use, so if there's any question as to their ability to hold themselves, you should just buy new.

My car came stock with a double nut setup which I still have in place today. That might have changed with later models.

My car came stock with a double nut setup which I still have in place today. That might have changed with later models.

Right. My bad. I have little experience with the early years and it's certainly conceivable that they changed the hardware over the years. By the time they got to the 260, I believe they were using the self-locking single nut, but I have no significant experience with anything earlier than that.

Even if they did use two nuts for the lock feature on the early cars, I bet they superseded it with the self-locking newer style. There's a "concourse" detail for you to keep an eye out for at shows. :bandit:

Forgive my crude diagram, but am I understanding this correctly? The 260 tension rod seems to have a retainer flange as part of the bar itself, or at least its corroded into one piece. But, the busing goes against it, into the cup on the chassis, and the other side gets a bushing, washer and then retaining and lock nut?

Also, spied a pretty clean 280 at the Pick-n-pull. Probably there to pull apart the same 260 I was.

Here's the donor.

Yeesh.

Here's what I managed to pull off. Don't have the nut, and the bushings were in even worse shape. But $10 was a fair price to pay.

I don't think this ones gonna last. Guess I may need to start looking for a more permanent solution. It should do for now, though.

I guess I have every bushing except the one I need..

That one looks pretty bad. I would do my best to find another. You would think they were common because people change them for performance rods.

Goodluck searching.

Chas

Everything should come off the rod. In this pic, there are still a few old bits rusted into place on the donor rod. That large washer has to come off, but it's being held into place by a rusted into place sleeve tube. There is also a smaller washer behind the large one that you can't see in the pic.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]66118[/ATTACH]

Here's a pic of a bushing kit. Two small washers, two big washers, two bushings, a sleeve, and a nut:

In application, from front to rear of the car, it goes:

• Small washer
  
• Large washer
  
• Bushing (with sleeve in center)
  
• Frame of car
  
• Bushing (with sleeve in center)
  
• Large washer
  
• Small washer
  
• Nut
  

Here's a pic showing the install order.

This is what it looks like with urethane in front and rubber in the back. Note that the concave portion of the large washers should be away from the bushings. Also note that the direction of the black rubber bushing is wrong. The thicker portion of the rubber bushing should be towards the large washers, not towards the frame. I originally installed them incorrectly and later took them back off to switch the rear bushings around.

As noted, there's parts still on that rod. Get the big washer and the sleeve removed and you'll have a better idea of condition. The weak point is at the base of the shoulder of the transition from the smaller diameter threaded portion to the main rod. If that part is not cracked and about to break, or totally chewed up from rust, it might be fine. Polish it up and see how it looks then.

That one looks pretty bad. I would do my best to find another. You would think they were common because people change them for performance rods.

Goodluck searching.

Chas

Yeah, I'll be looking for a better candidate. But this one will do in the meantime. It was the only junkyard Z. My friend apparently only had rear suspension parts, unfortunately. I know of one other parts 280z owned by a local Japanese Car restoration company. They seemed willing to let the part go, but were closing up shop and I didn't have time to come see it. My next chance will be tomorrow - so I'll try them again, and see which is better. If so, I'll swap my pick and pull part for a valve cover to polish up. Haha

Everything should come off the rod. In this pic, there are still a few old bits rusted into place on the donor rod. That large washer has to come off, but it's being held into place by a rusted into place sleeve tube. There is also a smaller washer behind the large one that you can't see in the pic.

Okay. Thats exactly what I needed.

Thanks for the help everyone.

Here's a pic showing the install order.

This is what it looks like with urethane in front and rubber in the back. Note that the concave portion of the large washers should be away from the bushings. Also note that the direction of the black rubber bushing is wrong. The thicker portion of the rubber bushing should be towards the large washers, not towards the frame. I originally installed them incorrectly and later took them back off to switch the rear bushings around.

Captain. Did you buy this setup as is or is it made up from two sets? I have not seem them like this before, but I have seen them with two of the black ones. Your set up looks like it solves the stiffness problem. The black rubber with the deep grooves will allow it to flex when needed and its on the back so it wont alter the alignment geomentry.

Chas

Edited September 25, 201311 yr by EuroDat

Chas, That setup was put together from two kits and I did it that way based on info gleaned from other's previous experience about breaking T/C rods.

My PO had put poly at all four bushing locations (so I already had the poly). I replaced the rear poly bushings with rubber ones from that AC Delco kit in the pic. I bought two of those kits because I needed washers and sleeves for both sides, but only used half the bushings. I highly recommend that AC Delco kit by the way. Quality was excellent.

I just wish I had taken a new pic after I spun those rubber bushings around. I hate posting that old pic knowing that it risks others making that same mistake simply out of example. It's on the car now and I didn't take a pic after I fixed them...

Edited September 26, 201311 yr by Captain Obvious