What paint finish for best value when sellling?

[Webmanic70]

Hi guys, I need some opinions.

Does the type of paint finish effect the value of an early 240z? I have a Sept 1970 240z in extremely original condition but have finally decided to repaint it (in the original 904 white) because:

- In the past someone poorly resprayed the doors and fenders directly over original finish and it is cracking.

- The rest is original but there a stone chips everywhere

- some small dints noticeable in door and fender

- Rust spots developing around the rocker panel and valance

The paint shop asked if I wanted it to be a 'solid' finish like the original or apply a 'clearcoat' for better depth and durability. This means it will be the same colour but not precisely like the original finish. I am liking the idea of clearcoat but does this have an effect on the value of the car if I choose to sell it as an "original 240z"?

I also need advice on the finish to the underside of the fenders and wheel hub areas? It appeared to be painted white but had a black coat on it that is slowly disappearing. I was thinking of finishing in a similar colour as the rear finisher and grille (Nissan/Datsun Grey) but not sure what is the expected look in this area?

(Note there are no fender supports welded on the unibody on this car like I have seen in other threads)

[guaro]

White is a good color for an early Z, plus is the original color for the racing Z's in Japan back in the day. Also white can hide imperfections on body and easy to match . My dos centavos

[240260280z]

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/21480-best-buy-me-color.html

[240260280z]

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/47513-what-colour-paint-best-restoration-re-sale.html

[Webmanic70]

Ok, I think my question was perhaps a little unclear. Forget the colour because it will be the original 904 white. However I would like to know:

- Should I be clear coating the paint finish or go with a more 'solid' colour finish like the original. Does clear coating the paint finish effect the value when looking for an original example of a 240Z?

- Does it matter how I finish under the guards/fenders?

[madkaw]

The highest value would be original paint - which you won't have after painting. The next best thing would be to have the original paint code color applied. I can't see how anyone is going to ding the value of your car based on the paint being a single stage enamel or a 2 stage urethane . I would think most buyers would want to see a 2 stage for durability and ease of repair if needed.

If we were talking about repainting an original Porsche 550 Spyder then maybe "type " paint might matter.

IMHO

[26th-Z]

I don't like the clearcoat finish and take exception to the durability claim. I would go with a solid color finish. THe undersides of the fenders should be the same color as the car. The fender supports were not welded on to the unibody, they were bolted. I'll bet, if you look, you have the holes for those bolts and perhaps the captive nuts.

[Webmanic70]

Thankyou. That was probably the answer I needed because I am trying to retain the integrity of this car as much as possible down to the washer.

On the other point, no holes whatsoever along this rail. It is why I posted the pic. If you are referring to the fender shield then I had already unbolted and removed it for cleaning before taking the picture.

Edited September 25, 2013 by Webmanic70

[26th-Z]

Yea, I was talking about the fender shield. I (evidently) don't understand your fender support question.

[Webmanic70]

I notice on many threads that there three tabs fixed to the unibody to help support the fender (like in pic) but this does not appear to be provided on the earlier models. I am always accidentally flexing the fender when the head is over the engine.

Curious to also know the factory finish on the body behind the fender shield? It is grey on my car but not sure what it is.

Edited September 26, 2013 by Webmanic70

[26th-Z]

Oh, now I see what you are talking about. No, early cars (at least mine) don't have the supports. Must be careful not to lean on the fenders. What's your serial number, Craig? That's grey primer behind your fender guard with no paint finish. My cars had several areas like this.

[Webmanic70]

What's your serial number, Craig? That's grey primer behind your fender guard with no paint finish. My cars had several areas like this.

Thanks. I will paint the car the way the factory did it.

I am the second owner if HS30-00084 and plan to maintain it as a stock original example. I also owned HS30-00329 but sold it recently.