So as I posted before I have an early 260z that sat for 12 years. At some point several parts were stolen off of it. At the same time somehow the steering column cover left the steering column and landed in the hatch. Well now it has the following issues. First when you turn the key forward the fuel pump comes on power gos to the coil, but not much else no headlights, no turn signals no brake light. Turn to start and nothing happens, instead figuring it out for now I just ran a button to the starter, now once its running I have brake lights, turn signals, but still no headlights or wipers and only a gas gauge and a speedo. I always have interior lights and choke light. I checked fuses and found one blown but no gain. I found something obviously related as the two wires on top of the headlight/wiper switch are dissconected I found the green/yellow hanging loose one but am not sure where it goes don't what the other color even is supossed to be. I need ti figure out how its supposed to wired. I read up in the fsm but those wiring diagrams lose me fast and it really can't help the other problems. Any clues? I'm suspecting the ignition switch but the turn signals working when running is weird to me. I also wondered if this seatbelt interlock thing could be my problem but I son't even know to find out if I have it. There no buzzers or anything on start up. It has had an amatuer resto in the eighties. Any help would be apreciated.

The GY wire should be for your running lights. It's supposed to come from the headlight switch, down to the 9-pin connector, and goes out to the dash harness.

Either someone has hacked the wiring, or you managed to connect things wrong.

About a year ago, I did a breakdown of the hazard light/parking light/brake light circuit for the 72. I did the drawing in a style similar to the BE section of the 74 FSM, but I also included a description of the circuit operation. It might help you with figuring out the diagrams in the FSM. Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars

I didn't do anything to the wiring except repair/rewire the fuel sender, and add the starter switch. I'll look at that and see if its easier to read.

Does any anybody have a color coded wiring diagram for the steering column? I've got the car mobile again and would love having headlights.

It takes time to produce a color-coded diagram. It will be done eventually, though. The FSM does break down the circuit nicely. There are only two wires in play. The White/Red is the source coming into the steering column. The large gauge Red wire is the one that goes down to the fuse box. From there, it gets broken into the left and right headlight fuses.

So with a good fuse, if I ran power to the large red wire, I would then have my headlights on? And the white/red is the power wire?

So with a good fuse, if I ran power to the large red wire, I would then have my headlights on?

Only if you have a good return path. The return path for the headlights goes back to the turn signal switch. That switch changes which circuit (high beam or low beam) is connected to ground.

And the white/red is the power wire?

Yes.

Took her out for the first real drive since 2000, it was a no brake adventure:eek: but noticed that the choke light blinks with my turn signals, that can't be right. Thanks for the help I'll take a look at that wiring diagram.

Thanks, that diagram helps I'll take a look at it tomorrow.

Jumped the W/R to the red and got one headlight dim and the other one barely even lighting. It was reading 14 volts at the W/R.

You can get a new headlight switch (Amazon.com: Standard Motor Products HLS-1026 Wiper Switch: Automotive Summit appears to be a little cheaper: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-hls1026/applications/). Not cheap. Rebuilt switches cost somewhere around half that. The high/low beam switch in the turn signal doesn't seem to be doing well, either. Those are pretty much only available as rebuilds. Sometimes you will find a NOS switch, but those will run about $300. If you want to strike out on your own, look for a switch for a 74, 75, or 76. They are the same.

Edited November 18, 201311 yr by SteveJ

If he has enough current to drive a relay that might effective. Tap the line between the fuse box and the switch and insert a relay. Milliamps to drive the relay, full power to the lights. Assuming the grounding circuit is okay, which a new headlight switch won't fix anyway.