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Started on the restoration of my FJ40 yesterday.


JLPurcell

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Did you look into powder coat primers, then paint. Their is several advantages to it first is the coating get everything, it does not absorb oils and moisture. It uses a rough texture to allow the paint to adhere, and they say you need to scuff the paint to the primer to repaint a spot. The primer is designed to be painted the surface will oxidize and discolor without paint. I was looking into it for the Z to get the hard to paint areas on the hood doors and whatever else would fit the oven.

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Did you look into powder coat primers, then paint. Their is several advantages to it first is the coating get everything, it does not absorb oils and moisture. It uses a rough texture to allow the paint to adhere, and they say you need to scuff the paint to the primer to repaint a spot. The primer is designed to be painted the surface will oxidize and discolor without paint. I was looking into it for the Z to get the hard to paint areas on the hood doors and whatever else would fit the oven.

No, to be honest I do not know that much about powder coat. I am dropping off the frames, pans etc... this morning. The company has a large automated oven that will do large parts, they come highly recommended.

I have a pressure sprayer which I used last night to clean all of the parts and frame with lacquer thinner then I wiped all of the parts down with the same. The company runs the parts through the oven first to burn off any oils etc... then powder coats them. I will post pics when complete.

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Don't get me wrong powder coating is great stuff it has revolutionized production and protective coatings. The problems is most powder coating do not take paint well and make it hard to do touch-up on. On a framed car it might be the a at to go, including the suspension. On a 4x4 the frame gets scratched going over things and needs to be painted to protect the metal the problem is the paint flecks off the powder coating. I see this problem when touching up my roof rack on my FJ Cruiser, and the frame rails. Not to say powder coating will not have advantages on a 4x4 it is stronger and will take more abuse, it bonds better to the metal so it is less likely to chip off. Not to mention how good it looks with no paint runs.

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While waiting for my frame to get back from powder coat I am going to try and reproduce the horn button. There are no NOS available and I have a good part to make a mold with.;) I have ordered the mold and casting material and will need to make a vacuum chamber.:ermm:I will post more as the project moves along.

This is my starting point; my existing part is in good condition with the exception of the crazing of the plastic.

post-7454-14150830354002_thumb.jpeg

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did you rebuild the engine yourself? thats an F series with the shims under the crank caps right?

i had a heluva time getting oil pressure in mine after i rebuilt it. this was my first engine i ever rebuilt.

i didn't replace the oil pump. probably should have. i probably should google low oil pressure after rebuild

fj40. its been bugging me for years what went wrong.

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While waiting for my frame to get back from powder coat I am going to try and reproduce the horn button. There are no NOS available and I have a good part to make a mold with.;) I have ordered the mold and casting material and will need to make a vacuum chamber.:ermm:I will post more as the project moves along.

This is my starting point; my existing part is in good condition with the exception of the crazing of the plastic.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]74431[/ATTACH]

That will be fun to play with. I've wanted to borrow someone's good ash tray for the early 240Z and scan with a 3D scanner to reproduce one made with a abs 3D printer. If I do it I might just make it a cover that look like the ashtray door opens. That way I don't need to take the door off and risk braking it besides you can't use it for smoking if it was out of abs

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I have cast the first test part. The mold is great and the part is great with all of the fine detail.:love: I will have to buff the reproductions out or buff one out and make a new mold due to some slight transfer of the crazing. The next step is to build a vacuum chamber that creates a minimum of 29" of vacuum.This will make the part crystal clear with no air bubbles.:ermm:

This is the original and then the test cast.

post-7454-14150830443953_thumb.jpeg

post-7454-14150830443609_thumb.jpeg

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Great project. You have good taste in vehicles! The 240Z and FJ40 are a couple of my favorite classics, along with early 911s. Maybe one day I'll own one of each :)

Do you have a more detailed build thread going anywhere for the FJ40?

Looking forward to frame/body pics!

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Great project. You have good taste in vehicles! The 240Z and FJ40 are a couple of my favorite classics, along with early 911s. Maybe one day I'll own one of each :)

Do you have a more detailed build thread going anywhere for the FJ40?

Looking forward to frame/body pics!

New Member!!

This link is to the Land Cruiser Club it has more detail and will begin to have much more now that I have the frame back. Thanks for you kind comments and your interest. JLP

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