I am also getting parts and making the changes soon. It will be interesting to see everyones results and feedback from the changes.

Thanks so much for the detailed posts. It really helps someone like me that is still learning my way around the car.

De nada, mi amigo!

Not sure of this is relevant or even sheds any light on the subject. And before I go any further I do plan on putting in the fuel gauge and pot resistance tweak.

I let the car idle for about 20-25 minutes. The rpms are reading around 900 and steady. I then rev'd the engine between idle and 2200 rpms for about 15 minutes. I finished with running the engine around 2500-3000 rpms for 10-15 minutes. The car ran fine. I could not recreate the stalling condition. One last note during the 2500-3000 rpm period I had the car in 4th gear. And a few times cycled through the gears.

Any thoughts or is this just not going to be the same as driving?

Thanks.

I've often said a car that's been sitting can suffer from "cobwebs" that clear once the car is driven regularly. This same concept is embodied in the "Italian tuneup" (running the @#$% out of the engine to blow out all the whatever). Anyway, maybe your engine is suffering somewhat from cobwebs.

Idling the engine, even at a high idle, is not equivalent to actually driving it, at least for purposes of determining whether your fuel/air ratio is right. That's because the engine isn't under load and isn't sucking in nearly as much fuel and air. Shifting through the gears while sitting in the driveway probably does nothing of any use.

Is there anyway to simulate actual driving other than driving. I just hate breaking down on the road but maybe the only choice.

I am going to assume that if there was you guys would have told me.

Thanks.

Well, you could always put your car on a dyno, but that's expensive!

My only tricks when test driving a questionable vehicle are the obvious: Stay very close to home, and have someone available by telephone to come and pick you up if your car quits on you. Carry your tools with you. If possible, do a lot of test driving in an empty nearby parking lot. Churches are great for this.

When you get a bit braver and want to extend your range, an AAA card with unlimited towing is a must! I'd say it's a must for any classic car owner, regardless. You never know when these old machines are going to exhibit personality.

The issue is that 3 times during the trip and I beleive at speeds over 50 mph the car acted like it was running out of gas. It wanted to stop for about 2-3 seconds and then took off again.

The car ran fine. I could not recreate the stalling condition. One last note during the 2500-3000 rpm period I had the car in 4th gear. And a few times cycled through the gears.

These things seem to be typical of either a bad fuel pump (over-heating) or crud in the gas tank (clogging the inlet then floating away when stopped). If you go with a gauge kit and run the hose out of the hood you'll be able to watch pressure while you drive. If you put the gauge in the engine bay you'll have to jump out and open the hood and hope the engine stays running. Something to consider.

3,000 RPMs in 4th on jack-stands? Have ever seen Ferris Bueller's Day Off? You're a very brave man!

You are comparing a 61 Ferrari GT250 to a 76 280Z. Obviously we are dealing with a much better car here.

Going to idle the car for 15-20 minutes then go for some short drives.

Eventually I will give it the Italian tuneup.

Dropped and cleaned tank and repalced fuel pump and filter. Does anyone have experience with after market fuel pumps?

Purchaed gauge, tee, barbs, and 5k resistor pot. Going to auto store to get fuel line. I think I want the .125 ID line. Does that sound correct?

Should be hooking up soon but 30 degree weather is no fun. Need to get a heater for my shop. Still putting it together.

Thanks.

The fuel line between the filter and the fuel rail is 8mm. You'll find 5/16" fuel line at the auto parts store, and that's almost exactly the same. You'll need fuel injection rated hose -- approx. $4/ft, as I recall. (Don't buy the cheap stuff for carbureted systems, lest you have your pretty Z burst into flames someday from a fuel line rupture.)

FYI, there's a very nice looking fuel injection hose that's black, with a thin, blue inner wall. I would recommend you avoid it, as it easily becomes delaminated.

I am just a little confused on the fuel pressure issue. Is the only component that determines fuel pressure the fuel pump? If I place the gauge between the filter and rail am I just getting the pressure that the pump is delivering? Is the pressure dependant on load?

Just need a little help here. I am trying to decide if I just want to put the gauge bu the filter or up on the windshield.

Thanks