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Sorry to be Redundent - Help


bhermes

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The yellow teflon will not dissolve in a cup of gas, I tried it! I used the cheapest hose they had too, if it leaks it'll do it around the fittings 1st. I screwed the 1/4" nipple off the gauge into 5/16" hose and clamped it then zip tied it to the wiper. Crank your car and look for leaks before you leave out. Good luck! Maybe we, as in the chess players that like to figure stuff out before anybody else could buy some google glasses we could loan out to members in a jam?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Unfortunately the weather has not been great and with the new paint job leaving car in garrage. I have not been able to get out and check out fuel pressure yet. I have the setup just waiting for a good day.

On another note, I have been trying to run the car for 10 minutes each day and have noticed something that I am curious about. When reving up the car it will not stay at 3000 rpms. I rev it up to 3000 and it instantly drops to 2500. I rev it up again to 3000 rpms and again immediatly drops to 2500. I dont seem to get this at any other rpms.

Thoughts?

Thanks.

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That's right at the range the the Throttle Position Switch comes off the contacts. Look at this, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html

Uhm, I was a little off but not too bad. "In addition, the ECU also senses when the driver removes foot from accelerator and activates a "coasting mode" aka "Fuel Cut Mode". When the RPM is above 3200rpm and the TPS is in idle position, the ECU cuts off fuel until the RPM's drop below 2800."

Maybe your TPS needs adjusting? Somebody on here recently washed their engine bay and got the thing wet and had similar problems.

Edited by siteunseen
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If I am understanding this right the ECU is sensing, for some reason, that the car is in cruiding mode when it is actually not. I am not letting off the gas when the rpms drop. I have not really callobrated the rpm gauge so when I say 3000 it may be a little higher.

Is the TPS soley responsable for signally the ECU that cruising mode should be sensed? I would think an adjustment would might move the rpms but does this maybe lend itself to a bad TPS or ECU?

This maybe what is occuring causing the car to want to die on occassions.

Thanks.

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When I was trying to figure out my mid range stumble I thought it was the TPS at first, turned out to be the coolant temp tweak fixed it. If you pop the cover off and watch those vanes while working the throttle rod you can see if its making contact when it should and coming off the contacts when it should. I pointed a camera at my tach and put the monitor on the roof when I did mine. Maybe you could get someone to sit in your car and hold it at the right RPM's?

I cleaned the contact points with a fingernail file, the metal kind as to not git gritty crap inside there like sandpaper kind.

post-24724-14150827016953_thumb.jpg

Edited by siteunseen
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I will be checking the contacts on the TPS to see if they are moving at the correct rpms. Also to see if they may need to be cleaned. However, I started the car today and I did not get the same result as the other day. The rpms did not drop automatically at 3000 rpms. Again I am just reving in the driveway. It seems that the signal from the TPS to the ECU may not be consistant.

Thoughts?

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Maybe you just have a bad tachometer. Why are you sitting still and revving the engine though? I've only done that a few times to check my tachometer calibration and distributor's timing advance mechanism. Otherwise the engine only sees above 1500 RPM when it's in gear and the car is moving.

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I have been a little hesitant to actually drive the car. New paint job and bad weather (20 degress or raining). Also, the car stops running on me about 1 out of 3 times I drive it. Hoped to do some investigation while in drive way and garrage. It appears to me that something is sending a signal to the ECU to shutoff fuel delivery. It might be an issue with the TPS sending incorrect signals and I think I can check this without actually driving. Also want to check fuel pressure which initially I can do in driveway.

I do realize that ultimately the proof is in the pudding so to speak and I will need to drive. Next decent day the drive will happen. I think some of the problem is lack of driving over the past couple years. The car actually sat prior to that for about 15 years.

I agree with you on the dog thing, but I would like to have a little confidence that the car will at least get me around.

One last thing to note here, when I bought the car I had an issue with voltage regulator and getting 19V at the battery. Not sue what damage this may have done. I upgraded to the 60 amp alternator with internal voltage regualtor but still have the brake light on while running. Not sure if I am draining the battery when car is off or not. If I do not start the car every couple days battery will need to be jumped. Not sue if this is causing problems while running.

Thanks.

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Got it thanks. Although temp is only 33 degrees and a little windy, the car is going to get some attention today. At least I am going to check the TPS contact switching and clean if needed. If all goes well I will also install the fuel gauge to check fuel pressure. I do not have a solder here so the resistance tweak may have to wait until I can get a couple leads soldered. Does most Auto Parts stores carry the bullett style connectors? and fix the brake light issue.

I will search; however, is there a secret to getting off the TPS cover? Just don't want to break anything.

I will post with results later.

Thanks.

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