I am determined to learn how to remove the head. I have bought several books, including the "how to rebuild your datsun engine". However for fear of costing me more than it should, I am interested in a set of knowledgable eyes and hands.

I am in the Carson, CA area. I am willing to pay what it would cost a mobile mechanic to do the job. Please quote me for the headgasket repair. I would like to learn the process at the same time. My garage is semi-equipped. I have a compressor, wrenches, sockets, a radio, TV and beer.

We will be working inside the garage where it is shaded from the sun and the elements. I need a quote for instruction.

Daniel

'73 240z Hack Job

I can have everything out of the way before you come. Intake, exhaust, radiator, fan...

Your best tool for this job would be to get the following manual. Everything is detailed inside.

It is not difficult but you have to take your time, get the right tools and don't forget anything.

Main issue while changing head is getting the chain loose and release chain tensioner. You then have to manage to put it back on (if you know how to do it) or remove front cover which will add some extra hours of work.

Edited November 14, 201311 yr by Lazeum

This is for a later fuel injected head but it will be similar:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/42420-77-280z-head-removal-%5Bstep-step-photos%5D.html

Your best tool for this job would be to get the following manual. Everything is detailed inside.

It is not difficult but you have to take your time, get the right tools and don't forget anything.

Main issue while changing head is getting the chain loose and release chain tensioner. You then have to manage to put it back on (if you know how to do it) or remove front cover which will add some extra hours of work.

I have this manual, and I have the chain tool to prevent it from sliding down. You are going to have to forgive me when I say the manual references to things that is jargon to me -what I do know is, I do not know and determined to learn.

ISSUES:

Im at work so I dont have the book on me. Off of the top of my head, these were a few things that needed clarification...

-It references to things such as "you need to set mark to pointer". Not an exact quote but which pointer am I looking at?

-Make sure you are TC at its firing stroke, and not ....How do I know which is the firing stroke? I tried to youtube/google setting TC, nothing. Is this the same at TDC?

- Something about making sure X cynlinder exhaust and intake valves were fully closed. Which one is intake vs exhaust?

I know my questions sound stupid, and I accept that but I will not learn if I don't ask/expose myself. I will be happy to pay it forward 20 years from now, when a noob much like myself asks the same questions.

If youre going to suggest that I take formal instructions, Ive tried. I have a mortgage and 3 jobs. No college within So-Cal have a schedule that will fit mine and I just cant justify trade school at thousands of dollars to do a $500 repair -im not looking to make this a profession

Daniel

This is for a later fuel injected head but it will be similar:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/42420-77-280z-head-removal-%5Bstep-step-photos%5D.html

That's what Im talking about :-)

Next concern - 40 year old car = Hard to remove nuts and bolts. What if during my tinkering, I accidentally turn something that I have set to something specific. If someone would point out what I need to prevent, I would give them my first born child.

Example, engine set at TDC then I go to remove the cam sprocket and the chain turns = no longer at TDC.

Edited November 14, 201311 yr by dpascual1986

Don't worry 'bout it!!!

After you set engine to tdc, put car in gear (5th) and put parking brake on. You won't be able to turn the crank after that.

If you run into problems. This forum will help you.

Even before you do a step and are not sure just post a new thread here with a clear and concise subject (Help Me !!) and you will get fast advice.

Here is a video tutorial http://www.google.nl/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=video%20tutorial%20replacing%20head%20gasket%20datsun&source=web&cd=5&ved=0CD4QFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D6WCSh_6GA0k&ei=A0GFUqnhDK-f7gaQs4GgCQ&usg=AFQjCNEe_sJBasV4XG7OKLxgoJ-dItbVbw&bvm=bv.56343320,d.ZGU

I have not watched all 6 parts. He used a static position to video which does'nt give the best view point. He also removed the timing cover and timing chain which is easier but more work.

Take your time reading and asking question and you will manage it yourself. Later when you look back on this it will be much more rewarding then just paying someone else to do it.

Chas

Do a search and you'll find piles and piles of threads about head gasket change. Its easy and can be done alone, but extra set of hands (attached to body, preferably) are always good to have.

If your like me and new to these engines, except for driving them, you'll worry your self to death for fear of messing up- which is good to a point then you have to say screw it and just do it. I know these guys talk like it's as easy as changing your shoes, because when you've done them it is. But you still want it done right and on the first go round. My 2 recommendations would be to buy a quart of Acetone and a quart of Automatic Transmission fluid, mix equal parts together in a spray bottle and soak all the nuts and bolts you can find, right off the bat, they need to soak for awhile. It'll penetrate through the rust and grunge and make breaking them loose a lot easier. And don't let the timing chain drop! I used my longest screwdriver but would buy that tool Blue keeps in his Barbie doll suitcase for the next time, MSA sells them.

Do a search and you'll find piles and piles of threads about head gasket change. Its easy and can be done alone, but extra set of hands (attached to body, preferably) are always good to have.

I guess these wont work then. thanks for the advice.

If your like me and new to these engines, except for driving them, you'll worry your self to death for fear of messing up- which is good to a point then you have to say screw it and just do it. I know these guys talk like it's as easy as changing your shoes, because when you've done them it is. But you still want it done right and on the first go round. My 2 recommendations would be to buy a quart of Acetone and a quart of Automatic Transmission fluid, mix equal parts together in a spray bottle and soak all the nuts and bolts you can find, right off the bat, they need to soak for awhile. It'll penetrate through the rust and grunge and make breaking them loose a lot easier. And don't let the timing chain drop! I used my longest screwdriver but would buy that tool Blue keeps in his Barbie doll suitcase for the next time, MSA sells them.

im actually a step below your level, Im new to the engines and my only experience driving them is about 2 minutes total. I only move it in and out of my garage, it has a significant leak on the right side of the timing cover (milky fluid) and has jizz all over the cam.