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Original color repaint advice (Purists please chime in !)


Kingbird6

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Here's the paint colors guys. The color chip sample I have is the actual "camera eye" photo. The top (lighter red) is what is on the car now. The lower color is the original shade. I also included a photo of it as it sits now. The color in my photo is pretty close to how the human eye see it I think.

Brian

post-29857-14150826637807_thumb.jpg

post-29857-14150826638287_thumb.jpg

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From another "Purists point of view", (I'm currently in recovery and attend "Purist Awareness" meetings twice a month;)), It looks perfect, the orange/red

highlights are very evident. I second just putting it back together and enjoy! Detail work is what set a car apart. Don't settle for 20' or 10' perfection,

1' to 2' is so much more fun and rewarding.

Now, let the fun begin!:)

Dan

PS: Brian, take a look at your attachments, side by side of color chips and car. In the natural light it looks like your car is a perfect

match to the original shade.

Edited by AZ-240z
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I certainly appreciate everyone's inputs ! The lighting has a lot to do with it for sure and I forgot to mention that I did order some original paint from an automotive touch up group in Louisiana called automotivetouchup.com...I have to say their spray can was a dead on match for my remaining areas under the dash that I described. That's what got me going. So, I sprayed a nice metal sample about 6" by 6" and clear coated it and held it up to the car for comparison. It had a lot more orange in the spray sample and also produced a more vibrant color. In the end, I like both shades but it sounds like everyone thinks it's close enough to stick with what I have. My painter mentioned that he thought the color was labeled "Pagoda Red" when he ordered it, and as it turns out, that name comes from a bright red hue that Datsun used on earlier sedans in the mid-late 60's.

To answer the other questions here, I'm building it for me. I'm a 30 year owner and it's serial number 001635 so I want to keep it true to how I found her but a few shades off probably wont kill me. One other thing I should admit as a self proclaimed purist.......I couldnt afford to rebuild the motor as a broke high school kid so I dropped an L28 motor in around 1984. I got tired of stepping over the old motor block (serial number 001434) so I eventually dontated it to the scrapyard when I was young and stupid.

As luck would have it, I was able to locate a low serial number L24, complete with an E31 head and early oil pan when I started this project. But since it would never be my original motor for collectible value, I sent it off to Dave Rebello for a rebuild and a 230HP upgrade. But before you kick me out of the purist club, be advised that do I intend to run the stock but rejetted SU's and keep the engine compartment totally original to the eye otherwise. Dave knew what my intent was to begin with so he thinks I'll be just fine with the OEM manifolds etc. Not optimal for taking advantage of his fine work, but I could always keep the OEM parts and have fun with triple Webs. Just don't tempt me to gun it at the stop light or I'll give myself away :-)

Thanks again

Edited by Kingbird6
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Jim,

I'm contemplating adding a spoiler like the one in your photo. Cant seem to locate one similar. I'm only interested in adding something that looked like a factory or dealer option in 1970, not a large aftermarket air dam or something that requires me to drill the hell out of my original pristine panels. Thanks

Brian

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To answer the other questions here, I'm building it for me. I'm a 30 year owner and it's serial number 001635 so I want to keep it true to how I found her but a few shades off probably wont kill me. One other thing I should admit as a self proclaimed purist.......I couldnt afford to rebuild the motor as a broke high school kid so I dropped an L28 motor in around 1984. I got tired of stepping over the old motor block (serial number 001434) so I eventually dontated it to the scrapyard when I was young and stupid.

Might be a mistake on that engine number.. With that VIN the original engine should be something closer to 3434 or even 4434. A 1400 series block would be extremely rare even in a 10/69 production car. If you have a newer "low number" block - hope it is above 3506... as that is where Nissan started using the newer crankshaft design with additional counterweights..

As for the color - if you like the color after seeing it outside - I say keep it. If it really drives you crazy - then go ahead and disassemble and repaint. Shouldn't take anywhere near the same effort as it did the first time - as all the body work is done.. So your only talking about sanding, and respraying.. Nothing to pulling the doors and fenders off at this point.. The shop should be glad to to it for $2K to $3K - not anywhere near $15K..

FWIW,

Carl B.

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Jim,

I'm contemplating adding a spoiler like the one in your photo. Cant seem to locate one similar. I'm only interested in adding something that looked like a factory or dealer option in 1970, not a large aftermarket air dam or something that requires me to drill the hell out of my original pristine panels. Thanks

Brian

Brian, talking about Rebello, air dams, and stuff, if you haven't taken a look at this "Petrolicious" youtube video, have a look and enjoy. It is the first time I

have seen Watanabe wheels as they really should look on a very nice built-up car.

Dare to Be Different in a Datsun 240Z | Articles

Dan

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