Original color repaint advice (Purists please chime in !)

[jfa.series1]

Jim,

I'm contemplating adding a spoiler like the one in your photo. Cant seem to locate one similar. I'm only interested in adding something that looked like a factory or dealer option in 1970, not a large aftermarket air dam or something that requires me to drill the hell out of my original pristine panels. Thanks

Brian

Brian,

I presume you are referring to my Spook. That is the 1st generation BRE Spook, used only in their 1970 competition season. It and the rear spoiler were already installed by my selling dealer when I first saw the car. This version was replaced in 1971 by the more chisel-shaped model you find today at MSA and others. You can see the different models in the historic photos for sale on the BRE site. My version is NLA and I'm not parting with the one I've got.

Jim

[Kingbird6]

Carl,

Definitely a mistake on my part with engine number. I was playing off memory knowing that it was a 4 digit low number. with 4's in it :-) Won't matter anyhow at this point because my understanding is that Dave used a 280z crank in his mod of my L24. I believe he calls this build the "Purist Build" on his website taking the bore and stroke up while refitting a different cam, valves, porting of E31 head and intake manifold and recurve of ignition with lightweight flywheel. Supposed to put out about 230HP at the crank with re-jetted SU's or 270 with triple carbs. I am leaving the original series 1 four- speed manual and rear end for purposes of originality and he said they are plent tough to accomodate the additional HP. I wont be tracking the car or making it a regular driver anyhow

Brian

[nix240z]

I had a similar problem when painting my car, the paint shop mixed part of the paint wrong and I painted it. Then I looked at the paint and I could not sleep that night. I have also had every single nut, bolt, washer, etc. replated on my car, if it came from the factory it has been replated. I ended up repainting my car because it would have driven me crazy.

So if you have lost sleep then repaint because it will just drive you crazy, at this point in your build what is another $2 or $3k. Because i know how much I have in my build.

On a side note if you need any new rubber parts check out my thread

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/garage-hobbyist/49264-240z-fuel-brake-line-insulator-sets-steering-rack-expansion-reservoir.html

[Diseazd]

This is a predicament. My two-cents worth... If it is driving you crazy now, and you can afford to fix it, then go ahead and fix it. Otherwise, it will bug you forever. I too have a 905 red 1970. When I had mine painted, the paint shop told me that they had a PPG representative out to the shop and he used some sort of sensor to analyze they color inside of the door jamb. I did not see them do this and he could have made it all up for all I know, but I am happy with the color. It looks just like the original. People sometimes think I have an orange car. I used to have a 918 orange '71. Now that was orange. I would notice a 240z that was the "wrong" red, but I wouldn't hold it against anyone.

Question.....I don't recall you giving the paint code number. Was the code 905, or was it a different code number red? There was a lighter shade of red.....I think it was called Persimmon Red (code 110)...I believe those cars came with a white interior. Which code number was yours originally?

Edited November 20, 2013 by Diseazd

[Kingbird6]

Yes, my paint code is 905......

[Diseazd]

Sorry....I checked the records...110 was a 72 color.

[Travel'n Man]

Mine is Nissan 110 Persimmon red - light red/orange. It changes colors based on the light the car is under - bright sun brings out the orange - if it is a hazy day more on the red side. I wasn't sure if I would like it originally but now I wouldn't have it any other way. Tons of compliments anywhere I go on the car and the color.

[ollie]

I am in a similar boat in how far I went with my restoration...mine isn't a low numbers car but a '73. It is 918 orange and enjoyed an extensive stay on a rotiosserie at significant expense. The body work alone was north of 500 hours and the paint used is PPG. The hatch area was unaffected by rust and they used a storage cover to mix the paint. As it is now base / clear there is a different shade depending on the light for sure. Is it exactly as it was new? No but I am thrilled with the outcome...the OP's note about the motor, I am in a similar boat as well. I pulled the front clip and seperated the motor and had it built locally without doing much due dilligence as to the serial number. The seller said "all original, 24,000 mile car" which soon tunred out to be total BS....anyway soon as the block was hot tanked I went by and surprise "L26" stamped onto the block. Anyway I went ahead with my build using an E31 head, 280 valves, mild cam, and '72 carbs. There are no emmissions at all but the engine bay looks exactly like an early car with a Stahl header so when it comes time to resell the car, if someone wants to pick it apart that is what they will go after but these cars are meant to be driven so enjoy. I figure I have 2X into the car compared to what someone might pay for it...restorations no matter what are not cheap. I am hopeful 3D printing will solve some of the expense of things like rubber seals, trim and other parts....

[Oiluj]

She looks great in that red, it's the same color as my 1st 240z.

[bartsscooterservice]

Here's the paint colors guys. The color chip sample I have is the actual "camera eye" photo. The top (lighter red) is what is on the car now. The lower color is the original shade. I also included a photo of it as it sits now. The color in my photo is pretty close to how the human eye see it I think.

Brian

The color could have faded a little over time...