280Z from Colorado

[HaZmatt]

Hello everyone. I have recently purchased my first 280Z and wanted to introduce myself. Ive had a couple 300ZX and have always wanted an S30. I have big plans to restore her to her former glory. It is a 1975 280Z 4 speed manual. Color code 214 dark brown with black interior. The body is in decent shape just needs new lower fenders replaced and 1 small hole in the drivers floor pan. Also the inner fender area above the frame rails have the typical Z rust. Battery tray isnt too bad just surface rust. The previous owner started sanding down the car and primed the rusted areas, but it will need some major restoration.

My plans are:

Strip down and disassemble to the point where I feel comfortable putting back together. :laugh:

Media blast

Replace rusted metal areas

Paint and new undercoating

Reassemble with new or restored parts/hardware

Motor will be sent out for rebuild

New interior installed

New wheels, brakes, suspension, glass

Piece of cake, right???

here are some pics of the day I bought it. Let me know what you guys think!

[ajmcforester]

Looks like a project car I read your second post about if you need a 240 or 280. It depends what you want out of the car and even if you get a 240 their are some differences in the years, so what do you want out of the car?

[HaZmatt]

Looks like a project car I read your second post about if you need a 240 or 280. It depends what you want out of the car and even if you get a 240 their are some differences in the years, so what do you want out of the car?

I will be doing a resto-mod. Mostly original with a few upgrades in suspension, wheels, and a little more pep in the motor. I plan on keeping it for awhile and driving it mostly on weekends, cruises, and a few car shows.

[TomoHawk]

If you have a warm place to work, I'd start with the electricals and connectors (using DeOxit 100) because you can take the interior out to do a lot of it. You can still drive it n the meantime, to start prioritizing the mechanical repairs.

BTW- you can't use the phrase resto-mod, because it's copyrighted by the Mustang Club of America. :laugh:

Edited November 20, 2013 by TomoHawk

[HaZmatt]

If you have a warm place to work, I'd start with the electricals and connectors (using DeOxit 100) because you can take the interior out to do a lot of it. You can still drive it n the meantime, to start prioritizing the mechanical repairs.

BTW- you can't use the phrase resto-mod, because it's copyrighted by the Mustang Club of America. :laugh:

Haha -good to know, thanks.

[ajmcforester]

I posted what I think between the 240 and 280. BY the way a 280 have a lot less value in resale, but if you love the car keep it. The value of the car is what you think of it. Beside I kinda like the patina on this car. Could the rust be controlled? If so why not do a vintage-mod, that's wair you leave the car looking old on the outside and mod the inside. If you do that you stop the rust then clear coat the body. THings I would do it replace the front bumper with a 240Z bumper their is forums explining how to do this on the site and put a BRE spook on the front to give better ground control on the highway (the front of Z cars like to lift at high speeds and the spook counters that and looks cool). I liked those style rims are they one size up from factory or the same. If they are factory size I'd recommed going 1-2" taller rim the tires get cheaper and the choices get better. In the engine I'd look at pictures of European and Japanese models and get rid of some the emissions controls, just be careful enough not to remove so much the car won't pass emissions. Just some Ideas for the car. If you are rebuilding the motor I have some JE dishtop pistons and most of the rebuild parts for a 280Z motor.

[siteunseen]

Here's some '75 parts on our classifieds, Garage Clean Out, Miscellaneous, $ 1.00

[ajmcforester]

Also someone has a 240 motor with an E-31 head for sale on the site. A popular engine build is to mount that head on a 280z block (280Z have a larger block) and boar the head to accept 280z valves. The E-31 head is the better designed heads for performance on the Z cars, The only problem with this setup is the valve will touch the cylinder wall and make a pinging noise that aparently does not cause damage, or a small notch in the cylinder wall needs to be made to prevent the pinging. The advantage is higher flowing exhaust side and a better head shape for gas flow in and out of the cylinder. YOu can use the air intake but would need to change to the 240Z exhaust manifold or headers since the E-31 has square exhaust ports with round intake, instead of your current head with all round ports.

If you wanted to go crazy I always wanted to mount Hilborn fuel injection on one of these cars.

[EuroDat]

THings I would do it replace the front bumper with a 240Z bumper their is forums explining how to do this on the site and put a BRE spook on the front to give better ground control on the highway (the front of Z cars like to lift at high speeds and the spook counters that and looks cool).

I did the same. Replaced the front bumper with a 240Z bumper and a 240Z Xeon pu air dam. If you keep the 280Z valences you will have a large gap under the bumper because the 280Z bumper is about 5cm thicker. I have a 240Z bumper for the rear, but I also like the de-bumpered look on the rear.

A popular engine build is to mount that head on a 280z block (280Z have a larger block) and boar the head to accept 280z valves. The E-31 head is the better designed heads for performance on the Z cars, The only problem with this setup is the valve will touch the cylinder wall and make a pinging noise that aparently does not cause damage, or a small notch in the cylinder wall needs to be made to prevent the pinging.

I don't think you need to notch the cylinders on a L28. Thats done when you use the bigger L28 inlet valves on a L24 or L26 or so I thought, but it wont be the first time Im wrong.

As for 240Z or 280Z and best "investment". Don't expect to get anywhere near what you put into it when you eventually sell it. It just won't happen.

I wanted a S30 and found this one after more than two years searching. Im very happy with it and in the end thats all that count.

Whatever your choice. Enjoy the "ride"

Chas

[HaZmatt]

I posted what I think between the 240 and 280. BY the way a 280 have a lot less value in resale, but if you love the car keep it. The value of the car is what you think of it. Beside I kinda like the patina on this car. Could the rust be controlled? If so why not do a vintage-mod, that's wair you leave the car looking old on the outside and mod the inside. If you do that you stop the rust then clear coat the body. THings I would do it replace the front bumper with a 240Z bumper their is forums explining how to do this on the site and put a BRE spook on the front to give better ground control on the highway (the front of Z cars like to lift at high speeds and the spook counters that and looks cool). I liked those style rims are they one size up from factory or the same. If they are factory size I'd recommed going 1-2" taller rim the tires get cheaper and the choices get better. In the engine I'd look at pictures of European and Japanese models and get rid of some the emissions controls, just be careful enough not to remove so much the car won't pass emissions. Just some Ideas for the car. If you are rebuilding the motor I have some JE dishtop pistons and most of the rebuild parts for a 280Z motor.

Yes, I have considered leaving the patina because I thought it looks pretty cool. I will definitely be putting on the 240 bumpers, and replacing the wheels with either panasports or watanabes. Here in Colorado the emissions testing stops at 75 and older so im good there. I still have a lot of research to do before deciding what to do with the motor. Thanks for the suggestions!

[HaZmatt]

Also someone has a 240 motor with an E-31 head for sale on the site. A popular engine build is to mount that head on a 280z block (280Z have a larger block) and boar the head to accept 280z valves. The E-31 head is the better designed heads for performance on the Z cars, The only problem with this setup is the valve will touch the cylinder wall and make a pinging noise that aparently does not cause damage, or a small notch in the cylinder wall needs to be made to prevent the pinging. The advantage is higher flowing exhaust side and a better head shape for gas flow in and out of the cylinder. YOu can use the air intake but would need to change to the 240Z exhaust manifold or headers since the E-31 has square exhaust ports with round intake, instead of your current head with all round ports.

If you wanted to go crazy I always wanted to mount Hilborn fuel injection on one of these cars.

As for right now im thinking of rebuilding the L28, street cam, higher compression flat top pistons, polished head, and triple webers. But that could all change, we will see..

[ajmcforester]

As for right now im thinking of rebuilding the L28, street cam, higher compression flat top pistons, polished head, and triple webers. But that could all change, we will see..

If I was looking for high compression I would look at the E-31 conversion, because that was the higher compression head and the profiles would work better for higher compression. Flat top pistons are nice for power specially if wanting to use a drop forge piston. Their are some major drawbacks to the flat top like uneven heating across the piston, and inconsistent combustion pressures across the piston needing more structural strength and heat transfer to reduce damage to the piston.

If I was going to do a non-stock build:

I'd look at using a profiled piston in low compression setting which would push air out better, but has lower combustion properties;

or a dished piston that has better combustion properties, and woks better in boosted and/or higher compression.

The type of intake, compression, valve overlap and RPM settings would make the difference on the piston for me. If I was to go triple carbs I'd try to get Mikuni carburetors. If I used the 280 heads I would look at a profiled head to push more air through the head, if I used a E-31 head I'd look at a dished piston because the head cylinder profile is better for flow and I can take advantage of better compression. If noise was not an issue, I'd also look at having a large valve overlap and use a flat top piston on a E-31 head. I'd also use these same combos with the Hilborn fuel injection.

Another fun idea is a superchager especially since you have a fuel injection system that could be upgraded. I haven't seen one supercharged on the roads since leaving Colorado. Turbos and Superchargers at higher elivation has a greater impact on horse power. The horse power loss to elevation are far less in boosted cars. Normally I've seen a scew type mounted along the right side of the engine, and piped around the front of the engine.

Just some more ideas to think about.