I recently purchased a '75 280Z fairly cheap to do a restoration. Since then i've been scouring the internet and forums researching as much as possible and I quickly found that the 240's (especially the early years) are the more desirable car. So before I go dropping 20k or so into my 280, would it be more wise to just find a 240 instead? I love my car and it has minimal rust damage and I would like to think that I wont sell it, but would the 240 be worth a lot more money restored? Just wanted to get your opinions, thanks.

Kind of depends on what the $20k is going to buy.

IMO, the 240 might be a (slightly) better car to collect or to race, but the 280 is a better car for ordinary driving. Put back in proper shape, the 280 is a very reliable and comfortable (quieter, more refined) machine. Besides that, I think it looks cooler with the floating front bumper. The 240 is more of a sports car, and the 280 is more of a GT.

IMO the biggest difference between the models is EFI vs. carburation. If you like carburation (I don't), the 240 might be your machine. Of course you can put carbs on a 280, but I think it's a pity when that happens.

FAIW, NEITHER model will be a good investment if you're the one doing the restoration. The best advice anyone ever gave me (and many people have said it) is to buy a car that someone else has dumped tons of money into -- a car that is as close to the condition that you want. I would modify that advice slightly to say that there should be some deficit in the car you buy that is not, by itself, an enormous or costly project. That will give you the chance to bond with the car. (I know it might be weird, but I never really bonded with any car before taking a wrench to it.)

BTW, for an alternative EFI, check out the ZFuel thread in the Fuel Injection forum. A more modern, turn-key EFI might be soon at hand.

Edited November 20, 201311 yr by FastWoman

What are you looking to do? If a 240Z and a 280Z both need restoration, it's true the 240Z will probably be worth more in the end. But, if you think about it as a car you want to drive, then don't worry about what it's worth.

Wierd thing is, the 280Z guys backdate their bumpers to look like 240Z's, and the 240Z guys put in L28's and 5 speeds...

I say, just drive it!

The 280Z isn't generally as "collectable", in theory, but it is a much better "driver". At least that is my impression. The fuel injection and slightly more modern ignition system make it less fickle and less difficult to keep in peak working order.

That said, it is really up to you. Either one isn't going to lose much value over the next ten years, but in either case the cost of a full "restoration" will exceed the value when you are done. If you want maximum resale value you will pretty much have to make it bone stock, as any serious performance modifications will actually lower the resale value.

So do you want bragging rights, or a cool retro fast car?

Oh, I might mention the '75 was my first Z. It has by far the prettiest EFI engine, IMO. The only thing I don't like about it is the airflow meter, which lacks the backfire valve on the metering vane that was part of the design in all the other years. I *think* you can substitute a '76 AFM. The problem with the '75 AFM is that a bad backfire will bend the vane. That will happen even with a backfire valve, but not as badly.

Another thing both the '75 and '76 lack is the hood vents and heat shields. Heat soaking of the fuel rail system is a known issue in these cars, and the vents and shields really help with hot restarts.

Thanks for all your replies, I do realize that unfortunately with either car I will put more into it than what it will be worth. I am ok with this as I plan on keeping it but just dont wanna be kicking myself later I guess. Maybe im thinking too much about it.

Oh, I might mention the '75 was my first Z. It has by far the prettiest EFI engine, IMO. The only thing I don't like about it is the airflow meter, which lacks the backfire valve on the metering vane that was part of the design in all the other years. I *think* you can substitute a '76 AFM. The problem with the '75 AFM is that a bad backfire will bend the vane. That will happen even with a backfire valve, but not as badly.

Another thing both the '75 and '76 lack is the hood vents and heat shields. Heat soaking of the fuel rail system is a known issue in these cars, and the vents and shields really help with hot restarts.

Yes, i have already experienced this a couple times haha. Thanks for the info!

I'd put it this way: If you're actually going to drive and enjoy the car, it probably makes little difference whether it's a 240 or 280. Pick the car you prefer.

If you're going to make a lot of modifications to the car, it's probably better you choose a 280, because there are more of them. (It's a good karma thing.) You can make a 280 quite a bit like a 240, except a tad sturdier and with a bigger engine, if that's what you want.

If you're going to keep the car bone-stock, restore it to showroom condition, and drag it around to car shows on a trailer, the 240 will be a somewhat better investment.

I'd put it this way: If you're actually going to drive and enjoy the car, it probably makes little difference whether it's a 240 or 280. Pick the car you prefer.

If you're going to make a lot of modifications to the car, it's probably better you choose a 280, because there are more of them. (It's a good karma thing.) You can make a 280 quite a bit like a 240, except a tad sturdier and with a bigger engine, if that's what you want.

If you're going to keep the car bone-stock, restore it to showroom condition, and drag it around to car shows on a trailer, the 240 will be a somewhat better investment.

That makes sense. I will be making it as original as possible, but with upgrades to the motor, suspension, and brakes. I want to drive it on weekends,cruises and to some shows.

IMO, the 240Z is what people think is more desirable because it was the first Z car. Everything after that is just a kind of sequel. I agree that the later 280Z models are just better for riving because they had more comforts as standard equipment and are even more serviceable than the 240Z. I'd also say that parts, like interior panels, etc. are also more available, as people are either hoarding 240Z stuff, or the 240Z parts are just tougher to find.

Oh- the electrical system of the later models are a little better designed and just work better , IMO.

Edited November 20, 201311 yr by TomoHawk

..... but just dont wanna be kicking myself later I guess. Maybe im thinking too much about it.

No - you are thinking clearly. Sell the 280Z and find a great 240Z. If you "think" you'll have regrets now - you will for sure have them later. If 50 years of car buying has taught me nothing else - it has taught me that.

The DATSUN 240Z is THE car that changed the Sports Car world overnight. It is a significant part of U.S. Auto history - as it opened the doors in America - wide to the acceptance of Japanese Cars as being World Class. {not to mention changing Japanese Auto History}. The 280Z will never have that distinction. That is also one of the main reason the 240Z are so Collectible - They are a Milestone Car and now most certainly a true Classic.

The only reason to "restore" or "refresh" one today - is because you love the process of doing it yourself. To love that process and devote the necessary time and money - you for sure want to start with a car you love - not one you settled for. Shop, shop and shop some more - buy the cleanest, lowest milage, best cared for example you can find - no matter where it is - pay the money up front - it is always far less expensive in the end.

FWIW,

Carl B.

BTW - the above said - I would love to have a really original, low mileage, super clean 280Z. But only after I had a 240Z. No reason to only have one.

Edited November 20, 201311 yr by Carl Beck