so for the sake of moving along and not having to drop the transmission a third time, i'll take the "belt and suspenders" approach.

• replace the fork and slave with an adjustable 240 version (just in case)
  
• re-bleed the slave
  
• check the master linkage,
  
• adjust the slave again if needed.
  

surely something will come of doing all three.

I think you might be better off if you just spent a little time studying the system. It's actually super simple. Just think of two pistons that are connected by the hydraulic tube, that move the same amount. Then adjust the metal pieces on each end (the slave cylinder rod and the clutch pedal linkage) so that there is very little play in either. Make sure the slave cylinder piston is starting from just off the bottom of its stroke (described by EuroDat above). Make sure the clevis pin and the hole in the clutch pedal aren't worn out (they do wear out, causing lots of slop). That's pretty much it, no FSM needed.

Edited November 28, 201311 yr by Zed Head