Stumped in New Mexico

[robox]

Thanks for the replies, guys.

Zed Head, I had to read your post several times to understand it, but I now do. As to whether the pointer is from an early 240Z and should be pointing on the other side... I have no idea. I've been working under the assumption that, as previously noted, this damper appears to be from a ZX (a totally different engine). This also explains why the damper has 3 V-belt grooves while my car only appears to need one belt. I've also been assuming that once I pull the damper off the front of the crank, something will be revealed. I just haven't gotten around to doing that yet (more on that in a minute).

One other thing.... Zed Head you mention the following:

aligning the notch on the timing chain sprocket with the groove in the cam plate

I have read about this in my ancient Chilton's manual, and I cannot make sense of it (although I'm sure it's old hat to you guys..). The last time I had the valve cover off I spent 10 minutes with a flashlight looking for the groove, or even just trying to understand what the "cam plate" is.. and I was mystified. Any explanation or photos would be appreciated.

And Madkaw, I have the car somewhat disassembled at the moment so it may not be a bad time to investigate the oil pump and distributor shaft... I just don't really know what I should be looking for... not sure how to tell if things are lined up properly or not. I guess I should study the FSM because the aforementioned Chilton is not all that easy to understand sometimes.

After getting the engine running at 36º - 38º advance (what seems to be 6º - 8º advance) I shifted my attention elsewhere. I have had a 5-speed tranny sitting around for a while (without a shifter), and also the car has had a generous oil leak coming from near the rear of the engine. I decided that since the car was in the shop, I might as well get a few things done. I machined a new shifter for the 5-speed out of stainless, pulled the 4-speed, the clutch and the flywheel. Bought a new clutch, had the flywheel resurfaced, bought a new rear main seal. When I went to remove the old one it was spinning freely in there... not really "attached" to the block at all! I'm thinking that was the source of the leak! Also pulled the oil pan to re-seal. However, then the storm hit, the temps dropped (my workshop is poorly insulated... COLD in there right now), AND I got sick. So that is how the car sits... drivetrain somewhat disassembled waiting for me to feel better.

The storm has also, I think, interfered with me getting any new info about the parts car I mentioned earlier.

I will read up on the oil pump and see about checking it.

Info/insight on "cam plate" and notch appreciated.

Thanks!

[Zed Head]

The procedure is described in the FSM, Engine Mechanical chapter, about pages 18-20. Any 280Z FSM should work. I've found that Nissan changed the shape of the notch to a square groove for the ZX engines so you might look for that also. It's on the back of the timing chain sprocket, right above its hub or center, right in front of the camshaft retaining plate. The oblong groove is stamped or engraved in the plate. I attached a picture of the plate with the notch (it's right below the "4") and the illustration of what to look for. It's something that's easy to do and will confirm proper orientation of many different engine components, all in one shot.

[madkaw]

Just keep at it, you will get it. Like I said, understanding the valve timing and ignition is the right to passage with the L motors.

Even the old chilton manual should cover the distributor drive shaft position well enough. It has to be right on the 11.25 o'clock position at #1 TDC .

The drive tang is offset so there is only one way it fits into the dizzy, but pay attention to this because it does have to be right.

[chaztg]

If you have trouble confirming the "groove - notch" relationship on any L series motor, it will cause all kinds of weird stuff, and the thing is you may not be aware of any mis-setting if you have certain parts like a cam sprocket that doesn't have a "notch" which makes it highly difficult to see the "groove"--so basically it SHOULD look like that picture or close to it, otherwise you may have a deeper problem