Plasti-Dip Longevity Report

[Jetaway]

Just thought I'd do a follow up on a post I made a little over two years ago. I wrote about Nevr-Dull and Plasti-Dip:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/43443-two-favorite-cosmetic-uses.html

Two years later, going on three to four years after application, the Plasti-Dip is still a nice, solid black, unfazed by washing or heavy sun exposure.

Chris

[TomoHawk]

I'll add that the parts I dipped in black Plasti-Dip (some wiring holders/wraps) are still in good condition despite them being on top of the intake manifold. the black electrical tape (the cheap kind) on the wiring, however, did not do so well, and is unwrapping.

[ajmcforester]

Has anyone tried using it to re-coat the parts that had a plastic like coating, like the hood release? I was going to try that but I'd like to know how long it last, is it worth it? I'm glad to hear it hold up on wire connectors and exterior parts.

TomoHawk, you usually get what you pay for with electrical tape, cheap price cheap tape. I have some stuff that once I put it on I have a hard time getting it off. In fact if I do not use the role in about 3 years it become a hockey puck, because I can't peal it off the role. I went to an electrical store and told them I wanted the toughest tape they have and I got it. I can't remember the brand and I might have had several different brands. Just don't get the cheap stuff.

[AZ-240z]

I used plasti-dip to restore a couple of the retainer tabs found predominantly under the hood to secure the wiring harness. Two of these tab's spot

welds had broken loose. I just stripped the original plastic coating, recoated with plasti-dip, painted with car color, and re-secured tabs using

body panel repair grade epoxy instead of welding for a very easy repair. Looks perfect, lasts a looooooooooong time.

Also, if you can find "loom tape" which was originally used on wiring harnesses and has no adhesive backing, in lieu of electrical tape, and,once you

learn how to secure the loose ends when wraping with loom tape, it looks perfect and doesn't end up a dirt attracting, sticky harness.

FWIW

Dan

[TomoHawk]

After I researched the tape, I found that 3M 88 has the best features for automotive use. The only problem with that and most every other kind of PVC electrical tape, is that it only comes in a 3/4 inch width, which looks awful when wrapped. IMO, I think 1-inch is what you'd want.

Does Loom Tape come in anything besides the non-adhesive type?

[AZ-240z]

After I researched the tape, I found that 3M 88 has the best features for automotive use. The only problem with that and most every other kind of PVC electrical tape, is that it only comes in a 3/4 inch width, which looks awful when wrapped. IMO, I think 1-inch is what you'd want.

Does Loom Tape come in anything besides the non-adhesive type?

2 Rolls Factory Electrical Non Adheasive Wiring Harness Friction Tape M | eBay

[TomoHawk]

You will sill have to use regular adhesive tape to secure the ends.

[AZ-240z]

You will sill have to use regular adhesive tape to secure the ends.

Wiring harness re-wrapping : MGB & GT Forum : MG Experience Forums : The MG Experience

Isn't google great?

[TomoHawk]

Google is a fine resource for searching, but posting links without explaining what it's for or why one would want to follow it isn't.

[Jetaway]

I used plasti-dip to restore a couple of the retainer tabs found predominantly under the hood to secure the wiring harness. Two of these tab's spot

welds had broken loose. I just stripped the original plastic coating, recoated with plasti-dip, painted with car color, and re-secured tabs using

body panel repair grade epoxy instead of welding for a very easy repair. Looks perfect, lasts a looooooooooong time.

I myself have a few of those little darlings hanging about (literally) and hadn't thought about using plasti-dip as a coating on them. Looks like an add to the spring to do list.

Chris

[Jetaway]

Has anyone tried using it to re-coat the parts that had a plastic like coating, like the hood release? I was going to try that but I'd like to know how long it last, is it worth it? I'm glad to hear it hold up on wire connectors and exterior parts.

TomoHawk, you usually get what you pay for with electrical tape, cheap price cheap tape. I have some stuff that once I put it on I have a hard time getting it off. In fact if I do not use the role in about 3 years it become a hockey puck, because I can't peal it off the role. I went to an electrical store and told them I wanted the toughest tape they have and I got it. I can't remember the brand and I might have had several different brands. Just don't get the cheap stuff.

I did a test patch on part of the rear bumper rubber strip six months ago. Looked better when I put it on, hasn't seemed to age in any way, so I'm going to go ahead and do all of them. True, this is rubber, not plastic, but I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't work well. Could be tough to mask off the lettering and symbol, though.

3M Super 33+ electrical tape is the boss. Once you have used it, not only will you not buy the cheap PVC stuff again, you'll toss out any of it that you have. But I'm not sure if it is designed to hold up on top of an engine.

Went to 3M's web site. Rated to 220 F, so, depending on whether you are an optimist or a pessimist, it's either good to go or a little shaky on top of an engine. It does come in a 1 and 1/2 inch width, though good luck finding it retail.

Chris

[240260280z]

I have this but never used ii yet

plastidip and tape in one