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SS Voltage Regulator


ninjazombiemaster

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Hey Guys,

Since my alternator died early this summer, I upgraded to a shelf brand alternator, which I'm pretty sure is 60 amps, but still externally regulated. I had not replaced my regulator. This of course fixed the whole not charging thing, but I really don't see the electric system performing any better than with my old alternator. Is it possible that the old regulator is negating the advantage of the larger alternator? How much of an improvement can typically be expected with a new internally regulated alternator of the same amperage?

Rockauto's 280zx Reman Hitachis are running a fair $50, and I could probably redo the wiring myself and skip the $20 adapter.

Edit: Also, as a side note, I do plan on running a larger amplifier eventually. Anyone have any idea if the 280zx alt would be sufficient? I'd only need something about 400-600 watts.

Edited by ninjazombiemaster
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Does your car have the factory designed electric fuel pump modification installed? If so, using an internally regulated alternator without removing the wiring for the fuel pump relay will cause the relay to be energized all of the time. This could cause your battery to drain if the car sits for an extended period of time.

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I know. I don't believe so. It definitely doesn't have the pump, but if I find a relay I'll remove it. I just don't know if it a solid state regulator is worth replacing a brand new alternator. I also read in some other threads that cleaning the connectors may help, so I'll check that, and see how much that helps first

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Ok, here's something interesting. I cleaned the contacts, and during my drive, it did seem that it helped a little. Heading back home, I went WOT and reclined the car. My radio shut off, lights omg it extremely bright, and the ammeter was reading around 40.

Got home, and the car wouldn't shut off. Pulled the spark plug lead and even still the brake light and radio were on.

I looked In the bay and found a soft glow, which turned out to be a short at the alternator. I separated the wired and it was back to where i was. Mediocre charge, especially at idle. But - this means my alternator is capable of a good charge. Maybe it is the regulator after all?

That brings up the next question.. there's a very small price difference between replacing the voltage regulator ($40) and putting in an internally regulated alternator ($50). Which is the better action.

The alternator is a bit more work, but nothing challenging. Not really sure what I want to do...

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Yeah. I'm leaning towards replacing the alternator vs the regulator. The one I bought was from Checker's auto out of need, and their alternators are legendarily crappy. I had to grind it to fit and then the stock mounting bolt stripped the threading so I had to secure the adjustment with a nut. The Hitachi will almost certainly be better.

Edit: Sucked it up and bought the '83 280zx Alternator. $60 after shipping from Rock Auto. I'll let you all know how it performs when the install is done.

Edited by ninjazombiemaster
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Went to Auto Zone and the battery tested bad. I replaced it with a Duralast gold, 700 cold crank amps and 130 reserve minutes. Seems like there has been a small improvement, but I don't think that was the problem.

Doesn't really feel like my battery was bad enough to justify dropping $115 on a new one - but if it helps it crank this winter, I'm for it.

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While I'm going through all the trouble, I picked up a new Pertronix. I used to have it, but it met an unfortunate, early end at the hand of the rotor this past spring. I liked having it, and hope that the between it, the Alternator and battery my car will be staring well this winter. Last February we got temperatures of 0 degrees and below in the day pretty regularly. My car is having a hard time already on a cold start and the first few minutes of driving.

The new alternator should be here Tuesday, and MSA says I should expect the Ignition between Monday and Wednesday. If all goes well and work doesn't call me in, they should all be installed Wednesday.

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Got the new alternator in, the diode and jumper seem to work. One thing I noticed immediately is that the ammeter doesnt go all over now with high rpms, its smooth and consistent. Power at idle still isn't great, however. So there must be more going on. New alternator. Cleaned connectors. New Battery. New internal voltage regulator. New electronic ignition. I really don't know what to do anymore.

During the repair, my temperature gauge stopped working for no apparent reason. I reached to push the connector in (with the car running like a moron) to see if it would help, and got my hand struck by the fan, I retracted and bumped the distributor cap, which gave way. The rotor struck the cap and broke the rotor, and gouged the cap. I guess I'm gonna have to take a bus to the parts store for a new rotor and cap, or take the bus to work for a few days while I wait for new ones from MSA. Fortunately it didn't damage the Pertronix Ignitor I installed just yesterday. I feel like such an idiot, but I'm glad I didnt get hurt worse, and I only broke inexpensive things. It let out the biggest backfire I've ever heard, though. Sounded like a gunshot, and all the neighborhood dogs went crazy.

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I appreciate that you are willing to share when things go wrong as it helps remind me to be careful when I am around my engine when it is running.

Back in the old days my family had a '57 chevy with a two speed automatic and as we drove down a main street in New Orleans my dad for some reason turned off the ignition and then turned it back on. What a nice loud backfire it made.

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