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vibration


Pomorza

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Hey mates

For the past few weeks I've noticed that on acceleration in first from a dead stop (and only in first) I get a horrible vibration which vibrates, well, pretty much the whole car. It feels as if something is loose or not grabbing. Any ideas? Clutch? Engine mounts?

Jan

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I would think something from the driveshaft back to the rear wheels. Pieces that get extra load under acceleration and can twist out of shape if something is worn or loose.

OR, it could be a sticky clutch. I had one of those. Does it happen while releasing the clutch pedal to get going, or after the clutch is fully engaged (pedal all the way up for those iffy on "engaged") and you're on the throttle?

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Your clutch is probably either worn out or has a problem at the friction surfaces. I had one that did what you described when it got warm. The hotter the weather and the longer I drove it the worse it got. It could get really bad, shaking the whole car. It was okay when cold. Changed the clutch, flywheel (I had a spare) and pressure plate and I was back to smooth take-off.

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Your clutch is probably either worn out or has a problem at the friction surfaces. I had one that did what you described when it got warm. The hotter the weather and the longer I drove it the worse it got. It could get really bad, shaking the whole car. It was okay when cold. Changed the clutch, flywheel (I had a spare) and pressure plate and I was back to smooth take-off.

Yup sounds just about right. Doesn't really do it when its cold - or I haven't noticed - does do it when its hot. Well when I gather the money together I'll probably spend it on a new clutch.

Thanks

Jan

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I replaced my chattering Zoom Perfection (from NAPA) clutch with a Rhinopac. I can't say if the chattering of the Zoom clutch came from the clutch or the flywheel (I did not have it refinished before installing) but I can say that the Rhinopac is very smooth and has a lighter pedal (less pressure required). They're both OEM spec. so I think that the Rhinopac might be more precisely made to allow more leverage on the pressure plate. In short, I like Rhinopac over Zoom Perfection.

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Jan, although clutch chatter isn't generally attributed to overheating and excessive glaze buildup on the flywheel, I think this is possibly the most common cause. At least it seems to be in my household (3 stick and 1 auto). My Saturn SL2's transmission is the best I've ever driven -- smooth and intuitive for over 2 decades until I replaced the worn, slipping clutch. The new clutch broke in well and felt just as perfect as the first. However, after a few months of hard driving by my stepson, it came back with a bit of a chatter. The most common/persistent shifting error seems to be riding the clutch when shifting from 2-5, as though starting from a dead stop. Totally unnecessary.

Another of our vehicles had an oil leak into the bell housing (CAS O-ring failure), and that has resulted in a chatter as well.

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I found a flywheel from a 2+2. The standard flywheel wouldn't fit for several reasons.

Main differences are:

-The disc contact surface diameter is too small 225mm instead of 240mm. The inside contact surface diameters begin the same.

-The 225mm pressure plate wont bolt up because the dowel pins are in the wrong place and the 240mm pressure plate has 9 bolts holding it down in 3 sets of 3. The 225mm pressure plate has 6 bolts in 3 sets of 2.

-The 225mm flywheel also has holes just outside the 225mm diameter, but still inside the 240mm diameter. They are for balancing.

The flywheels are the same weight before I had mine lightened.

Edit: The throw out bearing collar is the same as my 280z collar, but it is different for the 240z. Clutch fork are all the same except for the early 240Z with the adjustable slave cylinder rod and return spring tab.

Chas

Edited by EuroDat
Throw out bearing collar
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