High RPM problems.

[Zed Head]

That's for the coil. But the Pertronix Ignitor seems to like about 3 ohms total, coil and resistor, I believe. I know that there have been many discussions about the topic.

Here's a link to the recommended coil , it comes in 1.5 or 3 ohm flavor. Oddly, there are no specs or instructions for the Ignitor on their web site, so unless the paper instructions give advice, it's trial and error.

Edit - I did find instructions on Summit Racing's site though. Might not be the exact kit but the general specs. should be the same. Calls for 3 - 4.5 ohms on the primary circuit.

Edit 2 - if you do have a low resistance coil you can just add a resistor to get in the right range for the module. Or buy a coil with those specs.

Edit 3 - Note also in the Summit instructions the recommendation to check the Pertronix sticker for signs of over-heating. Obviously a fairly common problem.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-1181/media/instructions

40,000 Volt Canister Coils

Ignitor

Edited December 21, 2013 by Zed Head

[Mikes Z car]

Don't know if this is worth sharing but when I got my car 4 years ago it had the Pertronix and a Bo sch coil. It didn't want to rev well past 4,000 RPM per the mechanic and I wound up going back to a stock coil and points though eventually I want to revisit the Pertronix. I can't remember if we tried the stock coil with the pertronix. The numbers on the bottom of the Bo sch coil factory painted blue are:

9220 081083

K12V

0221 119 027

Edited December 21, 2013 by Mikes Z car

[madkaw]

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/37452-pertronix-ignitor-1761-install-coil-evaluation.html

[madkaw]

It seems if you look long enough you will find it here !

[240260280z]

This set of graphs are very informative. I recommend studying until it makes sense

[ninjazombiemaster]

That's for the coil. But the Pertronix Ignitor seems to like about 3 ohms total, coil and resistor, I believe.

My pertronix instructions says 3 ohms for 4 cylinders, 1.5 for 6 or 8.

This set of graphs are very informative. I recommend studying until it makes sense

Thanks Blue. I dont know where you find all this stuff.

Whelp. Long day at the shop, but its fixed. Running like a champ... The ballast resistor was responsible for the unreasonable voltage. Replacing it brought the voltage down at idle, and showed healthy voltages at all rpms. However, this was not the problem. I rechecked everything. I mean everything. The night was coming to an end, and as a last ditch effort I reinstalled my points. Boom. Redlining with ease. So I put the pertronix back on. Falls at 4000 rpm. I put my points on yet again, gave it a rough gap and its got its spirit back.

Now, that leaves two things. A faulty pertronix unit, or I wired it wrong. But, as the write up, the instructions, and common sense say - I did exactly this:

10. If you are using the stock coil and resistor, connect the Ignitor RED wire to the ignition input side of the resistor (Black/White wire) using your connector of choice. You will now have the red and black/wire connected to the rear terminal of the 1.6 Ohm resistor.

11. Connect the Ignitor black wire to the (-) side of the coil and you should be good to go.

I guess I'm going to be checking with MSA to see about a return..

[Zed Head]

Great that you're getting closer. I was just trying to give some insight on basic electrical principles.

Can you give the part number of your Pertronix part? I'm always interested in figuring out which web sites have good info and which don't and how companies' various products work. I'm surprised that your instructions are different from the Summit Racing instructions, which appear to be generic to all Pertronix Ignitors. Maybe you have a II or III Ignitor?

I opened up the Summit instructions for 1761 referred to in madkaw's #15 and it says 3 - 4.5 ohms for 1 - 6 cylinders, on a 12 volt system. Just a little unclear on the details, you seem to have a different Ignitor.

[ninjazombiemaster]

Great that you're getting closer. I was just trying to give some insight on basic electrical principles.

Can you give the part number of your Pertronix part? I'm always interested in figuring out which web sites have good info and which don't and how companies' various products work. I'm surprised that your instructions are different from the Summit Racing instructions, which appear to be generic to all Pertronix Ignitors. Maybe you have a II or III Ignitor?

I opened up the Summit instructions for 1761 referred to in madkaw's #15 and it says 3 - 4.5 ohms for 1 - 6 cylinders, on a 12 volt system. Just a little unclear on the details, you seem to have a different Ignitor.

It was the Ignitor 1 purchased directly from MSA. I'll find the part number for you when I get the chance.

Edit: Part - "Ignitor Datsun 6 cyl: 1761"

Edited December 21, 2013 by ninjazombiemaster

[Zed Head]

Thanks for getting back. So there are either two sets of instructions floating around for the 1761 Ignitor, one paper and one internet, and they use different specs. for the coil recommendations. Good to know.

Have to say that although the Pertronix products were probably innovative when introduced, they don't seem to have done much with them but ride the brand name in the last few years or more. Looks like they're even sticking the brand name on GM HEI modules, and generic aftermarket electronic ignition parts. No offense, just a commentary on how popular products change over time. I'm sure that they still work great once you get them set up right.

Performance Ignition Modules

Compare the RockAuto electronic ignition to the Ignitor II. Kinda interesting... Edit - actually, that looks like the Ignitor I, I guess. And, contrary to most brand names, the name brand is cheaper. Over $160 for the Airtex. More weird. I don't get it.

Edited December 21, 2013 by Zed Head

[madkaw]

The "Official" USA Site for 123Ignition Perfect Timing Every Time

This might be the best to come along yet!

[ninjazombiemaster]

I'm sure that they still work great once you get them set up right.

Yeah. I bought my car with a pertronix in it, drove it that way for about 6 months and it worked great. One day, the ignitor wires got caught in the rotor and ruined it, so I have been driving on points ever since. I know that my car *can* run great on the pertronix. Its just a matter of "why isn't it?".

Internet searches, and other members suggest that this isn't uncommon with the unit. Some have been able to get it working, others ditched the unit. My guess is I got unlucky, and mine is just faulty in some way.. I was hoping EI would get me starting easier this winter, but I guess for now I'll stick with points.

[Mikes Z car]

I have wondered how the Pertronix makes the dwell correct, maybe the electronics in the Pertronix figures that out or the magents are chosen to make that work with no adjustment? Here are pictures of the Pertronix I took out of my car in 2009 which I assume is their first model since it does not say ignitor II on it.

Edited December 21, 2013 by Mikes Z car