Air Flow Meter

[LBO730]

No battery problems. Sprayed the starter fluid in and it putted for a few seconds. Still trying to determine if a faulty AFM, water temp sensor or water temp switch can prevent the injectors from spraying enough fuel. Inadequate fuel flow I believe is definitely the problem. Just gotta figure out why.

[Zed Head]

Good luck. If you want to figure it out on your own (I'm assuming that you do since you're not really answering any questions) the best thing to do is to read the Engine Fuel chapter of the FSM, along with the 1980 Electronic Fuel Injection Guide (it covers all years up to 1980). You'll understand a lot more afterward. Pay special attention to what makes the injectors open, and how the fuel pump gets its power.

Index of /FSM

XenonS130 - S130 Reference

[LBO730]

Sorry Zed, Didn't mean to offend you. I thought I had answered all the questions. I'm obviously struggling to get the car started on my own. Let me try again. I'm testing voltage at the injector with the connector connected to the injector. I have 12 volts with the key on and a drop to 3.4 when cranking. Is this what you mean by "starting voltage"? Timing isn't off. Plug wires are in the right order. The noid light is pulsing weakly meaning that it pulses but the light is very dim. I would think it should be bright. I have read the "engine fuel chapter in the FSM numerous times and performed every test I can find. I have read the "1980 electronic fuel injection guide" numerous times and performed all 25 tests on the ECU connector plug. Some of the AFM tests are the ones that seem to be suspect. I know what makes the fuel injectors open and I know how the fuel pump gets its power. If I've missed any of your questions, please let me know.

[siteunseen]

Anybody in Virginia feeling the Christmas spirit still? Loan this man an AFM.

[Zed Head]

I'm just trying to help you get focused. I can tell from your thread that you're thinking about five things at one time and not sure about any of them. Kind of paralyzed with too many possibilities.

The test with the starting fluid lets you eliminate, for the most part, the ignition system. Now you can focus on why the injectors aren't spraying fuel while the engine is turning and spark is being created. Have you confirmed that Pin #1 at the ECU connector has continuity to the negative post of the coil? You haven't given enough detail to tell if you've actually done the specific tests to determine that the ECU has what it needs to open the injectors.

And, no offense intended, your questions about whether the water temp switch or the AFM can stop the injectors from squirting shows that you may not fully understand what makes the injectors squirt. Even though you've read all of the right stuff. Hence my specific questions, and comment about how you just need a few more numbers to get there. I still have things on my car that would never have been put there if I knew then what I know now. It takes a while for everything to soak in.

[JRSGTS]

Just my 2 cents...Check my thread "Noobie with fuel pump question" Lot's of good info there. To tell if the temp sensor is working right check the FSM for testing pin#13 to ground at ECU. ( on 76 at least) That gives you the range the temp sensor is putting out. I was in the same place as you. With "Super len's help after all my tests we determined the ECU must be at fault. After installing a replacement, at first I still had nothing....BUT all the spark and fuel in the world won't help if you plugs are fouled! All the trying and dying killed the NEW plugs I had. 6 new ones and she fired right over! Still needs tuning, but runs better than it has in years! Also, make sure all the starting attempts didn't "Wash" your cylinders with fuel. No compression, no run. You also don't want to run it on fuel saturated oil... KISS= Keep it simple silly ( Stupid)

JR.

[siteunseen]

KISS= Keep it simple silly ( Stupid)

Hello, my name is John and I have a Z car problem.

HELLO JOHN!

Where do I leave my sign in card?