wassup guys I got a question about lowering the Z. Which way would be better to go coilovers or bags.

The only coilovers I was able to find were KSport and Ground Control. both coil overs require weld on and the ground control require new struts and some other things. They both come out close to $1g and im assueming bags will cost more

Unless you are going with super wide tires/wheels, you don't need coliovers to lower a Z. You can just use lowering springs which are 1 -2" shorter.

How much do you want to lower the Car & for what reason ?. Replaced my original tired springs & shocks for Toliko blue's & Eibach Progressive Springs & the Car dropped at least 2". Front end lift was eliminated completely & handling was hugely improved.

I want to lower it more than 2in maybe double the rims I got are 16x10 all around tires 195x50 kind of small but at the price i got them I ain't complaining will get brand new bigger tires but thats later on tho.

Rbates how much did that run you and I heard it was pain in that arse to install

As someone with a lowered 240Z I have gone from tired stock suspension height to new stock suspension (higher than tired old) to so called lowering springs (help, I may have installed the fronts in the rear!) and then to coil-overs (GC using my old struts and sectioning them). Like the 240Z race car the engine crossmember in the street 240Z sits at 4 inches off the ground. That results in a few things worth considering. First you need to very careful to tuck the exhaust up as high as you can. Next pay attention to your tire and wheel size, the front brake rotors (too big and the LCA front lips have be be trimmed) and your outer tie rods (a lowered Z puts added stress on the inner tie rods so a custom hiem joint set are a good idea).

Suspension travel is limited and the ride can be called harsh by some if you use poly bushings along with stiffer springs and set the shocks to say race mode.

So what is your ride height goal and at what points will you measure?

So what is your ride height goal and at what points will you measure?

He's calling himself "slammsun". He'll probably put "Heelys" on his crossmember...

Forgot to add pictures

gnosez make some interesting points about exhaust height & ride quality. I have an MSA 2.5" s/s item & it's ok, but could have been better regarding clearance (was originally bumbing against the Diff). If I did this again I would go custom - price would be about the same. I think the spring comment may be referring to a batch of Eibach's that I think were labeled f/r incorrectly.Ride Quality ? I have Poly bushings & in my experience these have contributed more to the harsh ride than the springs & shocks. Based on the pic's of his very nice ride I think I'm at about the same height of the road (measured from the jack points) ~ 4". Will go measure.

If you are looking for any comfort in the ride, use progressive wound springs. I installed Mulholland[sp.] race springs and Bilnstein shocks on my Series 1 years ago. The ride was a lot stiffer than most of my passengers cared for. I, however, loved it even though periodically I had to scoop all the misc. screws and hardware out of the bottom of the doors and reinstall them. It was a firm ride to say the least.

Mark in Portland

I'm riding at 5.75 at the flat bottom of the front fender near the jacking point and 6 at the flat bottom just before the rear wheel well.

Street 250/275 and mid-point on the Tokico HTS fronts and a turn less (softer) in the rear 245/45/16 tires (picture shows 225 in the front- those are no longer available in the style)

Race 375 all 4 corners and just a notch or two from harsh in the front and two turns down in the rear 275s on 10inch wide 15 inch rears and 225 7inch wide 15 inch wheels front