I want to add a fuse block to the engine bay to help remove some of the high current flowing to the stock fuse block and ignition switch. So far I've installed Dave Irwin's headlight upgrade harness and parking light harness. The new engine bay fuse block I would power the electric rad fan, fan controller, fuel pump and starter relay. I'm thinking about using this block, 100/30A LED Micro Blade Fuse Block | Princess Auto

Can I assume that it can handle 100amps total and no more then 30amps on anyone circuit?

Thanks,

Chris

Bluesea make nice marine grade fuse blocks for boats. they are easy to buy. Most marine shops stock or can order these:

ST Blade - Blue Sea Systems

This one is similar to the one you posted and has the specs listed:

ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits - Blue Sea Systems

Here are the specs for the PA one

Blade Fuse Holders, w/LED Indicator

The BlueSea stuff is theeeee best quality stuff I've ever seen.

You know when you turn that big knurled volume knob on a $10,000 stereo amp and it gives you that feeling of quality and richness? Same with the BlueSea stuff. Fabulous.

That said the PA box will just fine for what you want. Just put some cleaning maintenance on the spring/summer list of things to do every year.

Now if you want water proof, and/or expandable and user configurable, get these

http://www.rallylights.com/all/electrical/fuse-blocks.html

The two boxes on the bottom right. The 16 gang splash proof comes with all the individual pins for you to crimp up and configure as you want.

AND, as if that's not enough, it's part of a system of snap together blocks. There is a 4-relay block that goes with this system too. Now we're talking DIY electrical and doing it right!

http://www.rallylights.com/all/electrical/relay-holders/hl62943-mini-relay-box-4-gang-splashproof.html

Edited January 29, 201411 yr by zKars

or gut something from a current JY car

I rewired my boat in 2005, using a Blue Sea block. We sold the boat a few years ago, and the block was still in like new condition. This is remarkable, considering the salt air and the really high humidity here. I think that part held up better than any other metal part I've installed on a boat (stainless?). If it can survive there, it should survive very well under the hood. I got mine at West Marine, BTW.

That said, a 30A circuit might do better with a Maxi Fuse. Or you could always wire two 15A fuses in parallel. Use silicone dielectric grease on the contacts!

BTW, I wouldn't trust the snap-on shield not to snap-off and fall onto the roadway at some time. Perhaps there's some way to secure it with screws. Or you could always just do without it.

Edited January 29, 201411 yr by FastWoman

Here is a pic of the BLUESEA ST blade fuse block PN 5025. Six positive connections...three for the lights and signals; three for the stereo and amps.

Thanks, some good suggestions.

dawg7, that's exactly where I want to put mine, do you ever have any problem with it getting wet?

fastwoman, any reason you would go with a Maxifuse over a regular or minifuse?

Chris

Being in Texas......not really worried about it. But I was thinking it being behind the shock tower and up on the wheel well that it would not get too much road splash. This picture shows where I put the relays. Right where the fuel vapor canister was located.

SWEET engine bay! I think I just found my new desk top wallpaper.

I'm going to put my relays in the same spot, I guess there is only a few places things like that will fit.

Thanks

Dawgs engine bay looks like mine - a lot !

I put my relays in the same spot. I used a fuse block that is my Mikuni thread - from wiring products.com I think.

80 amp with 6 fuses . I wired the power directly to the alternator .